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Tudor Submariner ref. 7928, Gilt 'Underline' Dial — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Tudor Submariner ref. 7928, Gilt 'Underline' Dial

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Tudor (maker)
Date
c. 1964
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
OC3392
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC3392)
Catalogue title (original)
Tudor Submariner Ref. 7928 - Gilt 'Underline' Dial Unpolished W/ Box & Papers (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC3392), this is a wristwatch by Tudor, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1964. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Submariner, namely those produced by Rolex, has long been considered the cream of the crop when it comes to watch collecting as a whole. Possibly the most iconic watch ever produced, the Submariner has long standing utilitarian roots that span decades, and everyone who’s anyone has been spotted wearing one. However, if you look deeper into the Submariner line, you may find a less known but just as incredible model manufactured by Tudor. The Ref. 7928 that we have here dates to circa 1964 and is one of the finest examples that we have seen. The case remains unpolished, touting thick lugs with prominent factory chamfers and crisp edges. The bezel assembly, also unpolished, houses a gently faded 'fat font' insert with a patinated pip. Inside, the black 'gilt' dial is stunning — beautifully-preserved, with excellent silver text, a beautiful chapter ring on the outer edge, and deeply patinated Tritium plots. It comes fitted to a correct 'rivet' Oyster bracelet with a blade clasp. Look a little closer at the bottom half of the dial, and you'll notice a small silver 'underline' just above the 6 o'clock marker. Almost unnoticeable and easy to miss if you are not looking for it, it is widely agreed that this was one of the ways that Rolex denoted that they had transitioned to using Tritium from Radium. Found exclusively on pieces from this era, it has become one of those small details that collectors go crazy for. It would be enough to enjoy this piece on its own, but accompanying this piece is a very cool inner box, guarantee papers, and dealer papers dated 1966. For many of us, this is what vintage is all about: subtle details, fantastic condition, and uniqueness in wear/patina. This one embodies all of the above!

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Dive and water-resistant watches

Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.

Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.

What to look for

  • Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
  • Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
  • Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
  • Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.

Dating clues

  • Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
  • Professional dive watches: from 1953.
  • Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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