Tudor Submariner ref. 7928, 'Gilt Underline Chapter Ring'

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Submariner, namely those produced by Rolex, has long been considered the cream of the crop when it comes to watch collecting as a whole. Possibly the most iconic watch ever produced, the Submariner has long standing utilitarian roots that span decades, and everyone who’s anyone has been spotted wearing one. However, if you look deeper into the Submariner line, you may find a less known but just as incredible model manufactured by Tudor. The piece that we have here, a Ref. 7928, dates to circa 1964 and is definitely a looker. It comes to us with a thick and symmetrical case, showing signs of a light previously polishing and with light signs of wear throughout. The once black 'Long-5' bezel insert has faded over time to more of a mid-grey color and shows matching normal wear. The standout feature with this piece, however, has to be that semi-gloss 'gilt' dial with a chapter ring within. It remains in beautifully preserved condition, seemingly devoid of any wear or damage, and features silver text printed throughout. The Tritium plots remain fully-intact and are evenly patinated throughout, and the handset matches perfectly. Last but not least, this piece features a small silver 'underline' under the text on the bottom half of the dial. Almost unnoticeable and easy to miss if you are not looking for it, it is widely agreed that this was one of the ways that Rolex denoted that they had transitioned to using Tritium from Radium. Found exclusively on pieces from this era, it has become one of those small details that collectors go crazy for. This is a strong example of a vintage diver that has seen steady grown in popularity, with no signs of stopping... ...And considering you sure can't pick up a Rolex with a 'gilt' dial anywhere near what this one will run you, this may be a more interesting overall design.