
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Tissot Navigator Chronograph (Ref. 817) "Lemania Cal. 827", 1960s
- Maker / attribution
- Tissot (maker)
- Date
- 1960s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 40.5 mm
- Stock no.
- TSTNAV817
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (TSTNAV817)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1960s Tissot Navigator Chronograph (Ref. 817) "Lemania Cal. 827" (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number TSTNAV817), this is a wristwatch by Tissot, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 40.5 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
In 1853 Charles-Félicien Tissot founded Ch. Félicien Tissot & Fils in Le Locle, Switzerland, with his son Charles-Emile Tissot, a watchmaker. Tissot began as a comptoir d’établissage , which was a network of independent craftsmen who were highly specialized in producing a variety of watch parts, sold to be assembled by various watch companies and then retailed. Tissot’s initial specialty was a focus on luxurious pocket and pendant watches, mostly destined for the United States market. The brand eventually became one of the world’s most prominent official timekeepers for sports, and naturally offered a range of classic sports watches to bring that expertise to individual wrists. One such sports watch was the Navigator Chronograph, which has become to be known as a sort of "holy grail" in the world of Tissot watch collecting. Featuring the famed Lemania cal. 827 movement housed within a beautiful 40.5mm compressor 817 case, it's a military-style chronograph that could have been manufactured today just as easily as the '60s. SPECS Stock # TSTNAV817 Brand Tissot Style Navigator Chronograph Model 817 Serial 25XXXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Matte Black W/ Blue Sub-Dials Millimeters 40.5 Bracelet Tissot Stainless Steel Bracelet CASE & BRACELET The stainless steel case is in excellent vintage condition, showing crisp chamfers, minimal signs of wear, and no notable evidence of previous polishing. The original bidirectional rotating diving bezel is exceptional with a light fade to a beautiful medium-grey color and shows almost no signs of use, with all markers remaining clear and visible. The case retains its original crosshatch crown and pump pushers. The case back shows gentle wear, appropriate for its age. The comes on its original and very rare oyster-style stainless steel Tissot-signed bracelet. DIAL & HANDS The matte black dial and blue sub-dials are gorgeous in color and in superb condition, showing virtually no signs of age and complementing each other perfectly. The tritium-filled Arabic numerals feature a rich yellow color and are fully intact, revealing no degradation under UV light inspection. The original tritium hands achieved a darker beige patina and exhibit no degradation under UV light inspection. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Chronographs and split-seconds watches
A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.
Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.
What to look for
- Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
- Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
- Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
- Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).
Dating clues
- Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
- Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
- Automatic chronographs: from 1969.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph
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