Rolex Submariner ref. 5513, 'Meters First Pumpkin'

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Rolex Submariner is a true icon — and the word "icon" does get thrown around an awful lot. If you were to ask ten people at random to draw you their idea of what a watch looks like, there is a significant chance that they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference, and good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Throughout its 70-year production, there have been countless small changes made to the model, particularly in the first decade or so, with the 5513 representing a true landmark in the history of the model. The Ref. 5513 mirrored the slightly earlier Ref. 5512 in virtually every way, minus the chronometer certified calibre within, and therefore only 2 lines of text on the bottom half of the dial, rather than the 4 that chronometer certified watches bear until this day. The 5513 enjoyed a long twenty seven year production run, and like many Rolex models, there was a large number of variations to the dials, bezel inserts, bracelets, etc., which results in a very fun and interesting collecting experience. Some enthusiasts and collectors agree that matte-dialed Ref. 5513s, along with matte dial Ref. 16800 Submariner Dates were the last Rolexes that were purchased and used by people who needed ruggedness and capability of a true purpose dive watch. A tool. Where by the mid-1980s, production of these References with gloss dials with applied white gold indices were phased in, as Rolex has become aware that their models had gained traction with professionals who worked in office settings as well. Dating to circa 1967, the 5513 that we have here is known within the collecting community as a 'Meters First' 5513, for its somewhat irregular printing of the depth rating on the dial beginning with meters and being followed by the equivalent in feet. The dial itself remains in fantastic overall condition, and exhibits an absolutely stunning 'pumpkin' patina across its Tritium plots. The handset has been professionally matched and the resulting look is gorgeous. The case has been very lightly polished in the past and retains symmetrical proportions with thick lugs and visible factory finishing. The rare 'long-5' bezel insert has faded over time to a grey color and suit the watch beautifully. It comes fitted to a period-correct 'rivet' Oyster bracelet with a blade clasp to round out the package. For many of us, this is what vintage is all about: subtle details, honest condition that tells a story, and uniqueness in wear/patina. This one embodies all of the above, and is a flat-out icon.