Rolex Submariner (Ref. 5513) Gilt Explorer Dial, 1965

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

First introduced in 1962 and ceased in early 1990, the ref. 5513 itself stands as the definitive no-date Submariner—a pure expression of tool-watch functionality that has inspired countless designs since. Its clean aesthetic, robust construction, and enduring balance of form and purpose make it an essential milestone in any serious vintage Rolex collection. The early production years of the Rolex Submariner reference 5513 represent one of the most dynamic and collectible chapters in the model’s storied evolution. Between the late 1950s and late 1960s—now fondly known as the Gilt Era—Rolex continuously refined the Submariner’s design, resulting in a succession of subtle yet significant variations. Case proportions, crown guards, and dial typography all underwent rapid transformations, with each iteration produced in exceptionally small quantities. Among the rarest and most sought-after variants of the reference is the Explorer Dial configuration, featuring the distinctive 3-6-9 Arabic numeral layout more commonly associated with Rolex’s famed field watch. For decades, it was believed that Explorer Dial Submariners were sold exclusively through Commonwealth markets, primarily the UK and Canada. However, recently uncovered catalogs have revealed that a very limited number were also distributed in the U.S. and select other regions—likely as part of a short-lived test-market initiative between 1961 and 1965. The lineage of this configuration traces back even earlier, to the big-crown ref. 6200 “King Sub,” cementing its place among the most historically significant Submariner variants. This particular example was originally retailed in the UK by Charles Packer & Co., a distinguished London jeweler known for its fine silver and long-standing partnership with Rolex. The original paperwork confirms the sale, and, much like Tiffany-signed Rolexes of the same era, this watch bears a matching retailer inventory number discreetly engraved on the underside of the upper-left lug—corresponding precisely to the retailer’s documentation. The UK-issued Rolex guarantee papers remain intact, hand-signed and stamped by Charles Packer & Co., with the period-correct internal reference numbering consistent with known practices of the time. Offered here with its original box and papers, this circa 1965 Explorer dial Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 represents a true grail-level example of one of the most collectible gilt-era configurations—uniting provenance, originality, and historical significance in a single, extraordinary piece. SPECS Stock # RLXSM5513EXP Brand Rolex Style Submariner Model 5513 Serial 11XXXXX - 17/5XXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Glossy Gilt 3-6-9 "Explorer" Millimeters 40 Bracelet Rolex 7206 "Swiss Made" Oyster Rivet Bracelet W/ 80 End Pieces CASE & BRACELET The incredible case retains thick, symmetrical lugs that retains prominent and crisp factory chamfers while exhibiting only minor wear with no notable evidence of being previously polished. The original Mk II "Long 5" fat-font bezel insert is in near-perfect condition, displaying nominal age or color-change, with the tritium pearl intact, which matches the dial patina nicely. The case retains its original 7mm twin-lock crown. The Charles Packer & Co. retailer inventory number is engraved on the back of the top left lug. The original Rolex 7206 Oyster rivet bracelet with 80 end pieces features a 4/65 date code and retains 11 links that show almost no stretch from use. DIAL & HANDS The original glossy gilt "Explorer" dial featuring characteristic 3-6-9 lumed makers is in simply incredible condition. The dial itself retains a semi-gloss gilt finish, which has developed a subtle, even texture typical of examples from this era. There are two minor areas of wear along the outer edge, specifically near 6 o’clock (“Swiss”) and above the 12 o’clock triangle, though these are virtually invisible to the naked eye. Explorer dial Submariners are notorious for fragile dials that often show heavy degradation, but this example is among the cleanest and most well-preserved we've encountered. The early tritium lume plots feature a charming yellow patina and exhibit only nominal spots of minor degradation and remain almost entirely intact throughout. The original gilt hands match the dial perfectly, under UV light inspection the lume in the minute hand was previously stabilized, visible as the slightly darker spots in the photos. This is a common and accepted preservation practice used to maintain the integrity of the original lume rather than fully replacing it. ACCESSORIES The watch retains its original Rolex box, Charles Packer & Co. retail guarantee papers, and original UK Rolex guarantee papers. The watch is keeping time perfectly, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be purchased upon request.