Rolex Submariner ref. 5513, 'Gilt' Dial

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Rolex Submariner is a true icon — and the word "icon" does get thrown around an awful lot. If you were to ask ten people at random to draw you their idea of what a watch looks like, there is a significant chance that they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference, and good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Throughout its 70-year production, there have been countless small changes made to the model, particularly in the first decade or so, with the 5513 representing a true landmark in the history of the model. The Ref. 5513 mirrored the slightly earlier Ref. 5512 in virtually every way, minus the chronometer certified calibre within, and therefore only 2 lines of text on the bottom half of the dial, rather than the 4 that chronometer certified watches bear until this day. The 5513 enjoyed a long twenty seven year production run, and like many Rolex models, there was a large number of variations to the dials, bezel inserts, bracelets, etc., which results in a very fun and interesting collecting experience. The piece that we have here hails from the early years of 5513 production where 'gilt' printed dials were still in use by the brand. Gilt dials are when the lettering, text, etc. are punched out of the dial so that the brass baseplate shows through, creating a truly stunning golden text appearance. These were and are not easy to produce and were ultimately phased out by Rolex in the later half of the 1960s, as they could not produced in the same quantity as a matte dial. But there is no denying the beauty of a gilt dial and they remain highly desirable to collectors and enthusiasts alike. Dating to circa 1965, the piece that we have here, while an early 5513, is actually from the last year or two of the 'gilt' era. It comes to us with a strong previously polished Oyster case, showing light signs of wear throughout with visible lug chamfers. The bezel is seemingly unpolished, with clear finishing and houses a correct 'Long-5' insert and lightly patinated Tritium pip. Inside, that 'gilt' dial largely retains its rich, glossy black surface with only faint wear around the indices on the lower half. The Tritium plots present beautifully, with a light and even patina throughout and a perfectly matching handset. It comes fitted to a correct, albeit slightly later 'rivet' Oyster bracelet with a signed blade clasp. This is a strong, well-rounded, and attractive example of an always desirable 'gilt' Sub.