Rolex Submariner ref. 5508, 'Small Crown' with 'Exclamation' Dial

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Rolex Submariner is a true icon — and the word "icon" does get thrown around an awful lot. If you were to ask ten people at random to draw you their idea of what a watch looks like, there is a significant chance that they would draw or describe something that looks like a Rolex Submariner. It’s the dive watch of reference, and good/bad/indifferent there is no escaping it. Throughout its 70-year production, there have been countless small changes made to the model, particularly in the first decade or so. The Reference 5508 is one of those short-lived iterations, produced for roughly 4 years in 1958-1962, and like virtually all Rolex Professional references from the early days, is coveted by collectors for its own reasons. First, the 'Small Crown' as it's know, features a more svelte 37mm Oyster case than that of its 'Big Crown' siblings, and of course, all subsequent Submariners. This allows for a fantastic wearing experience that was lost after this reference went out of production. The Ref. 5508 would also be the last Submariner without crown guards. In fact, this particular example was likely sold next to very early Ref. 5512 and 5513s, which of course do feature a completely different case design. Dating to circa 1962, this very late example hails from the last year of production and comes to us in excellent, honest overall condition. The case, correct 'rivet' bracelet, and bezel assembly are all seemingly unpolished and shows matching wear throughout. The case remains very thick, with symmetrical lugs and exhibits sleeve polish from age and use over the years. The 'fat font' insert also shows wear and sleeve polish that matches the case. The correct 'rivet' Oyster bracelet exhibits moderate stretch and wear. Inside of the case, however, is the real treat with this piece. The glossy black 'gilt' dial has been beautifully preserved. It features a fantastic and clean surface, shows only the faintest of wear and the luminous plots remain fully-intact. Given the paritcular age of this piece, the dial is also what is known as an 'Exclamation Point' dial for it's additional plot of lume beneath the 6 o'clock marker. This was Rolex' way of denoting the transition from Radium to Tritium in this era. The handset has been professionally color-matched and looks fantastic. It is fair to say that watches like this, preserved with these truly excellent dials do not surface often. We are very happy to be able to offer this fresh-to-market piece on the site.