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Rolex - Diamond bracelet-watch, 1950s, 18k yellow gold and platinum-iridium — view 1 of 2
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Rolex - Diamond bracelet-watch, 1950s, 18k yellow gold and platinum-iridium

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
gold
Lot
Lot 0BF500A9CC
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 213, Fine Jewels - Day 1, Finarte (2026), via Invaluable
Catalogue title (original)
Rolex - Diamond bracelet-watch, 1950s, 18k yellow gold and platinum-iridium (English)

View the source record (auction lot) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Invaluable auction listings (lot Lot 0BF500A9CC), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — Finarte

Diamond bracelet-watch, 1950s, 18k yellow gold and platinum-iridium, 11.00x11.00 mm square case, disappearing silvered dial with applied indexes and baguette-cut diamonds, hidden by a spring door with brilliant-cut diamonds and navettes, hand-winding movement, on a soft link bracelet with small leaves in brilliant-cut diamonds within two rows of baguette-cut diamonds, clasp in brilliant-cut diamonds, hallmarked and numbered, to be serviced. Weight 52.40 g, 17.50x1.50 cm

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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