
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Patek Philippe wristwatch, ref. 96J, Calatrava, 1932
- Maker / attribution
- Patek Philippe (brand / maker)
- Date
- 1932
- Historical period
- Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- gold
- Dimensions
- diameter 31 mm
- Auction house
- Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
- Lot
- Lot 391-20
- Credit line
- Auction lot record: LOT 20, New York, October 18, 2026
- Catalogue title (original)
- PATEK PHILIPPE, SWITZERLAND, REF. 96J, CALATRAVA, 18K YELLOW GOLD. (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 391-20), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1932. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. Recorded dimensions: diameter 31 mm. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Antiquorum catalogue description
A very rare and possibly unique early yellow gold calatrava, manual wind with unusual silvered dial wristwatch
Lot specifications (Antiquorum)
Model: Calatrava; Reference: 96J; Movement No.: 161 566; Case No.: 294 412; Bracelet: Leather bracelet; Caliber: 12'' lever escapement; Diameter: 31mm; Weight: 35,75g; Accessories: Extract of the archives and complete analysis by Eric Tortella-Tortella & Sons
Historical context
Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Identification Centre
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