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Patek Philippe Two-Tone Yellow & White Gold Rectangular Dress Watch, 'Breguet' Dial — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Two-Tone Yellow & White Gold Rectangular Dress Watch, 'Breguet' Dial

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
1928
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
white gold
Dimensions
Case 28 mm
Stock no.
OC2598
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC2598)
Catalogue title (original)
Patek Philippe Two-Tone Yellow & White Gold Rectangular Dress Watch - 'Breguet' Dial w/ Box & Extract (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC2598), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1928. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: white gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 28 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

As far as brand identity goes, Patek Philippe, unlike many brands, is seemingly free of being associated with any one model in particular, and instead enjoys a reputation for quality, craftsmanship, and a long-standing pedigree as a top Swiss manufacturer. Of course, there are models and model families that are nothing short of icons (e.g., Nautifuls, Calatrava, Grand Complications, etc.) but if you dig deep enough there are hidden gems that do not even fall into any of these families. Take the rectangular dress watch that we have here for example. Dating to 1928, this piece is reminiscent of what would later become the 'Gondolo,' but predates the model family. The case comes in at approximately 28mm x 37mm and features a white gold mid-case with a yellow gold bezel and caseback. Yes, this is a two tone yellow and white gold piece! Additionally, when worn on the wrist and viewed from a profile view, the case has a subtle and elegant curve to it, allowing for an incredible comfortable and svelte wearing experience. The recessed crown at the 3 o'clock position also caters to that svelte feel on the wrist. Couple the case dimensions — which, in its day, must have been considered on the larger side — with the 22mm lug spacing and the result is a surprisingly modern feel on the wrist. However, this is a nearly 100-year old watch and what a looker it is. Inside that case the silver dial shows its age, exhibiting patina and areas of wear throughout and presents honestly. The highlight of this dial, of course, is the stunning applied 'Breguet'-style indices in yellow gold, which are complimented by a matching yellow gold 'spade' handset. Fantastic. Naturally, this piece is powered by a manually-wound movement. Last but not least, this piece is accompanied by its original brown box and extract from Patek's archives confirming production in 1928. There are watches, and then there are watches! This is one of the latter.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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