
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Patek Philippe Square Dress Watch 18K YG (Ref. 1431) "Retailed By Cartier", 1942
- Maker / attribution
- Patek Philippe (maker)
- Date
- 1942
- Historical period
- Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- PP1431C
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (PP1431C)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1942 Patek Philippe Square Dress Watch 18K YG (Ref. 1431) "Retailed By Cartier" W/ Extract From The Archives (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number PP1431C), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1942. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
'You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.’ — Patek Philippe started this now ubiquitous marketing campaign in 1966 and never looked back, though they already had an outstanding legacy since the watchmaker was founded in the year 1839. Patek built its reputation on several foundational pillars: tradition, innovation, and excellence, all of which are paramount in every timepiece they make, both old and new. While Cartier has been synonymous with luxury jewelry and watches since the brand's inception in 1847, the Maison is best known for their own creations. However, much like Tiffany & Co. and other jewelers, Cartier also retailed other luxury watch brands such as Rolex and Patek Philippe with the Cartier name signed directly on the dial. Much like Tiffany & Co., but even more so, these specially signed dials are extremely rare and sought after within the collector community, with only a handful surfacing every few years. SPECS Stock # PP1431C Brand Patek Philippe Style Square Dress Watch Model 1431 Serial 90XXXX / 62XXXX Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Silver "Aged" W/ Cartier Signature Millimeters 27x27 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The beautiful and perfectly square 18K yellow gold case is exceptionally well-preserved, especially for its age, and retains very crisp finishing, edges, and dimensions throughout. The case also maintains very deep hallmarks and engravings throughout and retains its Cartier inventory number engraving on the top right lug in fully visible condition. The unsigned gold crown is believed to remain original to the watch. The case back features an engraving of initials that read "R S". The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The early "Patek Phillipe & Co." dial is co-signed with the "Cartier" signature and is in well-preserved vintage condition, showing honest elements of age throughout which is expected for a non-waterproof watch of this era. The yellow gold baton hands and subsidiary seconds hand remain original to the watch and are in excellent condition. ACCESSORIES The watch comes with a very recent Patek Philippe Extract From The Archives. The service history is unknown and is ready for service. The service can be provided upon request at the time of service.
Historical context
Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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