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Patek Philippe “GUBELIN” Yellow Gold Calatrava, ref. 2508, 1955 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe “GUBELIN” Yellow Gold Calatrava, ref. 2508, 1955

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
1955
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
Yellow gold
Stock no.
668718
Credit line
Dealer listing, Grey & Patina (668718)
Catalogue title (original)
1955 Patek Philippe 2508 “GUBELIN” Yellow Gold Calatrava (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Grey & Patina (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number 668718), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1955. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Yellow gold. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Grey & Patina

The 2508 is a watch that is seldomly seen. Launched in the early 50’s this Calatrava was the first of its kind to be housed in a “waterproof” case. We don’t see anyone wearing this to go free diving however there is a peace of mind knowing your dress watch may be able to survive an acrobatic dive into the pool should one be chased in Monte Carlo by evil henchmen. There are a few layers to dissect with this piece starting with the stunning dial which has turned a salmony pink over the years. The raised nipple indices along with the dauphine hands hark back to a decade where ornate details combined intertwined itself with simple utility and the combination is stunning. On top of all this remains the odd “Gubelin” double name detail on the dial. Many are likely familar with Tiffany & Co stamped dials however Patek had a unique relationship with the Swiss retailer which is still in existence today. The 35mm case has oxidized into a rosey patina and appears to be yellow gold. The movement is the famed 27sc and is in excellent condition as well. Dial: Salmon patina dial “Gubelin” double name Insert: n/a Case: Excellent case 18k Bracelet: Leather

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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