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Patek Philippe & Cie. Officier – 18k Yellow Gold, White Enamel Dial, Circa 1925 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe & Cie. Officier – 18k Yellow Gold, White Enamel Dial, Circa 1925

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
c. 1925
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Dimensions
Case 31 mm
Stock no.
W-3991
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3991)
Catalogue title (original)
Patek Philippe & Cie. Officier – 18k Yellow Gold, White Enamel Dial, Circa 1925 (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3991), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1925. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 31 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

A wonderful piece of early Patek Philippe history, combining a beautiful white enamel dial, expressive blued hands and the unmistakable charm of 1920s watchmaking. There is something truly special about these early wristwatches. Before the Calatrava, before modern references and established design codes, Patek Philippe was creating beautifully crafted timepieces that carried the elegance of pocket watches onto the wrist. This lovely Officier-style example dates to approximately 1925 and captures that fascinating period perfectly. The 31 mm case is crafted in warm 18k yellow gold, with a beautifully rounded profile, delicate wire-style lugs and two hinged backs that can be opened by hand. The inner gold cuvette protects the hand-wound movement, a wonderful detail from traditional watchmaking. But the real attraction is undoubtedly the white enamel dial. Its beautifully shaped black Breguet numerals, traditional railway minute track and subsidiary seconds at six create a wonderfully expressive face. The elegant blued steel hands add just the right touch of colour, while the early Patek Philippe & Cie. Genève signature completes the picture. The dial retains its attractive appearance, with fine age-related hairlines visible under magnification. The gold case shows gentle wear and a lovely warmth acquired over its long life. The winding crown appears to be a later replacement, something worth mentioning with a watch of this age. Inside beats an early gilt-finished, manually wound Patek Philippe movement, fully serviced by our experienced professional watchmaker. The watch is paired with a Bulang & Sons leather strap. For us, this is what collecting early Patek Philippe is all about. Beautiful craftsmanship, genuine history and a character that simply cannot be recreated. Specifications: Patek Philippe & Cie. Officier-style wristwatch Circa 1925 31 mm 18k yellow gold case with hinged back and inner cuvette White enamel dial with black Breguet numerals and small seconds Blued steel hands, wire-style lugs; apparently later crown Manually wound Patek Philippe movement Case no. 603xxx / movement no. 808xxx Fully serviced by an experienced professional watchmaker Historical Context During the 1920s, wristwatches were gradually replacing pocket watches. Patek Philippe’s early Officier-style pieces preserved traditional details such as hinged gold covers, enamel dials and elegant wire lugs. This example belongs to that important transitional period, years before the introduction of the Calatrava in 1932.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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