Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 18k Yellow Gold, early 1950s

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

Introduced in 1932, the Patek Philippe Reference 96 is the original Calatrava, created during the Great Depression as a simpler, more accessible, and modern wristwatch. Designed by David Penney, its Bauhaus-inspired, minimalist aesthetic helped define the modern dress watch, featuring a 31 mm case, a clean dial, and a small seconds display. It was the first serially produced wristwatch to carry a formal Patek Philippe reference number. Produced from 1932 until 1973, it featured a sleek design with integrated lugs and a flat bezel, embodying the “form follows function” philosophy. Although considered a dress watch, it was produced in a wide variety of configurations, including stainless steel, precious metals, sector dials, and even luminous military-style variants. Presented here is a lovely 18k yellow gold example, with a beautifully preserved case and crisp, clearly visible gold hallmarks. The snap-on case back features an elegant, finely engraved motif—presumably a logo—whose origin remains unknown, adding a touch of mystery and charm. The dial is an opaline silver, with raised enamel signature and a “dot” minute track. It features a small running seconds at 6 o’clock, applied baton-style markers, and is completed by sharp dauphine hands. The watch is paired with the pictured strap and fitted with an AW-signed plaque buckle. The watch and its hand wound movement has been fully serviced by our watch maker. A true icon of understated elegance & A cornerstone piece for any serious collection , contact us to learn more about this fine 96 ! Specifications: Patek Philippe Calatrava 96 31mm 18k yellow gold case, snap back case back Case number72xxxx / movement no 20xxxx dating to the early 1950s Silver dial with small seconds Case-back engraved Dauphine hands Manual wind Patek movement cal Comes on the pictured leather strap, fitted with an AW-signed plaque buckle. Fully serviced by our watchmaker