Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 438 'Mid Size', 'Breguet' Dial

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Patek Philippe Calatrava. Arguably the brands most iconic model line, and purest expression of the brand. Their raison d'etre if you will. The line has been a hit since its debut in 1932. So much so, that the name "Calatrava" itself has become something of a byword within the watch industry for traditionally styled, no-frills dress watches that simply tell the time. Over the course of its nearly 100-years of production, there have been seemingly countless iterations within the line, with variations in the metal they are made in, with their size, dial configurations, and eventually, complications. The Calatrava that we have here, a Ref. 438, is a close relative to what is perhaps the quintessential vintage Calatrava reference: the Reference 96. Coming in at approximately 28mm in diameter, this 'Boys' size variant dates to 1941 and is executed in yellow gold. The case itself is very healthy and retains nice symmetrical lugs at all four corners with clear hallmarks. The dial within is also gorgeous. Silver in color, the surface features a satin texture and shows a light patina throughout. The real highlight here, are the applied 'Breguet' indices and corresponding 'spade' handset. Far less common than the more often seen 'pencil' or 'stick' indices, these are coveted by collectors and stunning to behold. Additionally, there are 'dot'-style indices acting as the minute track on the outside of the 5-minute markers, and a silver 'concentric' subsidiary register for the running seconds at the 6 o'clock position. This piece is powered by Patek's proven and long-running manually-wound Calibre 10-110 movement, which is operated by a yellow gold crown at the 3 o'clock position. And don't let the case size fool you, this piece can be worn by a surprising range of wrist sizes. The word icon gets thrown around a lot in the world of watches and horology... this one is absolutely worthy of it.