Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 2508 'Waterproof', 'Series 1A' Dial

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Patek Philippe Calatrava. Arguably the brands most iconic model line, and purest expression of the brand. Their raison d'etre if you will. The line has been a hit since its debut in 1932. So much so, that the name "Calatrava" itself has become something of a byword within the watch industry for traditionally styled, no-frills dress watches that simply tell the time. Over the course of its nearly 100-years of production, there have been seemingly countless iterations within the line, with variations in the metal they are made in, with their size, dial configurations, and eventually, complications. And then, there is this: the Calatrava Reference 2508. First offered in 1951, it has become one of the more sought-after, collectible, and best-regarded time-only Calatravas ever produced. Why? As you'd expect, there are a few reasons: The case, which by the way, bears a strong resemblance to the 1463 chronograph, is designed by Taubert and features a 'waterproof' design with a screw-down caseback and comes in at a virtually perfect 35mm in diameter. The dial offerings are all exquisitely crafted, beautifully designed, and features some of the most timeless and stylish applied indices ever. Last but not least, the movement is one of Patek's finest time-only movements ever made, the Calibre 27 SC. The example that we have here dates to circa 1955 and is crafted out of yellow gold and houses what is known as a 'Series 1A' dial. The overall condition is formidable. All aspects of the case and 'stepped' bezel are beautifully preserved, with clear hallmarks, correct finishing and proportions, and showing just normal wear for its age. The dial inside, thankfully, is in equally well-preserved condition. The desirable applied yellow gold 'stud' and 'dart' indices are complimented by a yellow gold 'dauphine' handset and central seconds hand. This example comes fitted to a signed brown leather strap with a correct, matching 'PP&Co.'-signed yellow gold buckle by 'AW' and an extract from Patek's archives confirming production in 1955 and its original sale in 1956. There are watches, and then there are watches! This is one of the latter.