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Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1503, Satin Silver 'Fab Suisse' Dial — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1503, Satin Silver 'Fab Suisse' Dial

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
1948
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
silver
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
OC3149
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC3149)
Catalogue title (original)
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 1503 - Satin Silver 'Fab Suisse' Dial W/ Box & Extract (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC3149), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1948. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Patek Philippe Calatrava. Arguably the brands most iconic model line, and purest expression of the brand. Their raison d'etre if you will. The line has been a hit since its debut in 1932. So much so, that the name "Calatrava" itself has become something of a byword within the watch industry for traditionally styled, no-frills dress watches that simply tell the time. Over the course of its nearly 100-years of production, there have been seemingly countless iterations within the line, with variations in the metal they are made in, with their size, dial configurations, and eventually, complications. The Calatrava that we have here, a Reference 1503, is a not often seen model executed in stainless steel. Dating to 1948, 35mm case features gorgeous 'teardrop' lugs with a 20mm spacing, which lend themselves to a visually pleasing presence and more modern wearing experience on the wrist. It remains in very strong condition overall, with symmetrical lugs, correct finishing, a steel crown, and a snap-back caseback. Inside, the silver dial is also well-preserved, with excellent black 'raised' enamel signature and indices, applied 'pencil' and 'Arabic' indices and a matching 'feuille' handset. It is powered by Patek's Calibre 12-120 manual-winding movement. Additionally, this piece comes with its leather box and extract from the archives confirming production in 1948. This lesser-known reference is elevated simplicity at its absolute best — the very essence of the Calatrava. And being stainless steel, rare for any Calatrava, makes this very simple piece a real sleeper. There are watches, and then there are watches! This is one of the latter.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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