
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ponti Gennari, ref. 2545, 1957
- Maker / attribution
- Patek Philippe (maker)
- Date
- 1957
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- 18k Yellow Gold
- Stock no.
- CUR562
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Watches of Knightsbridge (CUR562)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1957 Patek Philippe Calatrava 2545 Ponti Gennari (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Watches of Knightsbridge (dealer), London (stock number CUR562), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1957. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k Yellow Gold. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Watches of Knightsbridge
A refined example of mid-century Patek Philippe craftsmanship, this 1957 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 2545 is distinguished by its exceptional presentation on an 18ct yellow-gold brick bracelet crafted by Ponti Gennari, one of Geneva’s most celebrated specialist goldsmiths and historic collaborators of Patek Philippe. Founded in Geneva, Ponti Gennari developed a reputation for producing highly refined precious-metal bracelets and jewellery creations, working closely with Patek Philippe during the golden era of vintage wristwatches. Their bracelets were not generally standard production fittings, but were typically special-order creations, individually commissioned to complement the elegance of Patek Philippe’s finest dress watches. Known for their exceptional craftsmanship, intricate construction, and luxurious finish, Ponti Gennari bracelets are now regarded by collectors as rare and highly desirable works of Geneva jewellery art. The bracelet’s supple brick-link construction provides both comfort and visual presence, offering a striking contrast to the understated sophistication of the Calatrava’s classic round case. The relationship between Patek Philippe and Ponti Gennari represents an important chapter in the Maison’s history of collaborating with specialist Geneva artisans; the firm was later renamed ARSA before being integrated into Patek Philippe’s own workshops. A rare and elegant vintage timepiece, combining the purity of the Calatrava design with the exceptional craftsmanship of one of Geneva’s most revered bracelet makers. The dial on this watch has been professionally refinished.
Specifications — Watches of Knightsbridge
Reference: 2545; Metal: 18k Yellow Gold; Movement: Manual Wind, Cal. 12-400; Bracelet/strap: 18K Ponti Gennari Bracelet, Patek Philippe Strap & Gold Pin Buckle
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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