Patek Philippe Calatrava, early 1950s

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

First presented in 1932 with the Reference 96, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is the benchmark for classic men’s dress watches. Though it wouldn't attain the "Calatrava" designation until the 1980s, this groundbreaking reference set the stage for nearly every piece Patek has released since, and became the blueprint for other brands’ approaches to classy men’s timepieces. Heavily influenced by the Bauhaus design philosophy, the Calatrava was then considered extremely modern with its minimalist, ‘less is more’ approach to watch design. Over the years, this dressy collection has evolved, but the look remains unmistakable and iconic, and its rich history provides the vintage and pre-owned enthusiast with a variety of choices in metals, sizes, and tiny details to obsess over. In 1951, for example, Patek Philippe debuted the Reference 2508: A 35mm hand-wound dress watch in a waterproof, screw-down case from Taubert, it's among the most wearable of the vintage Calatrava models — and certainly among the most lovely. With roughly 1,000 pieces produced in yellow gold and far fewer in rose — not to mention just a handful known in stainless steel — it's also incredibly rare. This particular example, a Reference 2508J, dates to the early 1950s. Housed in a 35mm yellow gold case with a correct, unsigned crown, a smooth bezel, and an acrylic crystal, it features a beautifully brushed midcase with clear hallmarks and a 10-sided screw-down caseback. Its silver dial is balanced and lovely: Featuring an outer 1/5th-seconds track, applied yellow gold 'triangle' and 'pyramid' indices, a matching gold 'dauphine' handset, and a blued steel central seconds hand, it boasts the perfect mix of Bauhaus-inspired simplicity and slightly more modern proportions. Inside this exquisitely preserved piece and covered with a dust cover beats the Patek Philippe Calibre 27 SC, a hand-wound movement adjusted to five positions (plus heat, cold, and isochronism) and covered in handsome Geneva striping. Paired to a signed brown alligator-pattern leather strap from Analog:Shift with a signed yellow gold pin buckle, it is, quite frankly, the platonic ideal of a midcentury dress watch. While references such as the 2508 and 2509 long flew under the radar, the market is finally catching up and realizing just how special these watches truly are. Once you strap this incredible example to your wrist, you're bound to come to the same realization.