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Patek Philippe Calatrava 3796D “Clous de Paris” Porcelain Dial with Hangtag & Extract from the Archives, 1989 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Calatrava 3796D “Clous de Paris” Porcelain Dial with Hangtag & Extract from the Archives, 1989

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
1989
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 31 mm
Stock no.
W-3588
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3588)
Catalogue title (original)
Patek Philippe Calatrava 3796D “Clous de Paris” Porcelain Dial with Hangtag & Extract from the Archives (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3588), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in France, dated 1989. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 31 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

The Calatrava, introduced in 1932 as Reference 96, is a cornerstone of modern horology, defined by its Bauhaus-inspired minimalist and functional design. Created during the Great Depression, it helped secure the future of Patek Philippe by bringing understated luxury to the forefront of wristwatch design. Presented here is a beautiful Reference 3796D in 31 mm 18k yellow gold, with the “D” denoting the iconic Clous de Paris (hobnail) bezel finish. The condition of the case is exceptional—we can find no evidence that it has ever been polished. The warm red patina of the gold is a detail we always love to see. The porcelain dial is equally impressive, featuring crisp black printed Roman numerals, a small running seconds sub-dial at six o’clock, and elegant stick hands. This fine Calatrava is fitted with an original Patek Philippe leather strap and an original 18k Patek Philippe pin buckle. The watch is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives confirming both the date of manufacture and the date of sale as 1989, as well as its original Patek Philippe hangtag bearing the matching serial number. Powering the watch is the hand-wound Caliber 215 PS, fully serviced by our watchmaker and ready to be enjoyed for years to come. A timeless Patek Philippe dress watch in outstanding, superb condition. Please contact us for pricing, additional details, or to arrange a private viewing in our lounge! Specifications: Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 3796D “Clous de Paris “ 31mm 18k yellow Gold Case with snap-back case-back White porcelain dial with small running seconds and Roman numerals Original Patek Philippe leather strap an 18 k gold PP pin buckle Calibre 15 PS hand wound movement Case number 286xxxx/ movement number 181xxxx dating to 1989 Extract of the archive dating production and sale in 1989 Patek Philippe hang tag with the serial on the watch on it Fully serviced by our watchmaker

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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