
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Patek Philippe Calatrava 18K RG (Ref. 565) Two-Tone Silver "Hausmann & Co." Dial, 1956
- Maker / attribution
- Patek Philippe (maker)
- Date
- 1956
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- silver
- Dimensions
- Case 35 mm
- Stock no.
- PPC565RG
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (PPC565RG)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1956 Patek Philippe Calatrava 18K RG (Ref. 565) Two-Tone Silver "Hausmann & Co." Dial W/ Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number PPC565RG), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1956. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
'You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.’ — Patek Philippe started this now ubiquitous marketing campaign in 1966 and never looked back, though they already had an outstanding legacy since the watchmaker was founded in the year 1839. Patek built its reputation on several foundational pillars: tradition, innovation, and excellence, all of which are paramount in every timepiece they make, both old and new. If it weren't for the Nautilus or Grand Complications series, Patek Philippe would undoubtedly be best known for the Calatrava. The Patek Philippe Calatrava is the truest representation of the classic dress watch, and was first introduced to the world in 1932 with the model reference 96. The sleek round cases of the Calatrava often feature extremely simple, yet perfectly executed designs with elegant dials that lack all unnecessary obstructions. A true "must-have" for any Patek collector or dress watch aficionado. While there are nearly countless options and iterations of Patek's classic dress watch line, there are some references that have risen to an iconic status, the Calatrava ref. 565 is one such timepiece. The ref. 565 is known for its contemporary design, especially for the era, and was one of Patek Philippes first ventures into waterproof watches. Featuring a robust, almost architectural, two-piece 35mm case with a screw-down case back created by Taubert & Fils (Formerly the Borgel Company). The Borgel Company is also notably known for creating the cases for the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 chronograph, as well as the cases for the waterproof Movado M95 chronographs. Like with anything in design, it comes down to the dimensions and details, of which the ref. 565 is all but lacking. The half-domed shape to the top case continues through the lugs and is completed by the domed crystal, creating a seamless and whole overall design. The varieties of each dial variation are all captivating, though the more intricate designs remain the most desirable. The large winding crown adds the the underlying sportiness of the watch while its ornate styling maintains the classic elegance of Patek Philippe. The time-only design of the ref. 565 further exemplifies the essence of the Calatrava, allowing the design as a whole stand out, rather than the function of a unique complication. The ref. 565 and can be seen with either a center seconds hand, or a subsidiary seconds hand, the latter of which presented here with the cal. 12-120 inhouse movement. Hausmann & Co. is a very well-established jewelry and watches retailer with roots in Rome that date back to 1794, and has been collaborating with Patek Philippe for over 100 years. This Calatrava ref. 565 is not only in beautiful condition but the dial is cosigned "Hausmann & Co." celebrating the two companies' partnership, which is now a highly sought-after dial variation for the reference. SPECS Stock # PPC565RG Brand Patek Philippe Style Calatrava Model 565 Serial 93XXXX / 66XXXX Size Men's Material 18K Rose Gold Dial Silver Two-Tone Millimeters 35 Strap 2pc Leather Strap W/ 18K RG Patek Philippe Tang Buckle CASE & BRACELET The remarkable and rare 18K rose gold case is in truly exceptional and well-preserved condition, maintaining the original case dimensions and intended design in sharp fashion, with only gentle signs of previous use present. The hallmarks remain extremely crisp and fully present. The acrylic crystal is in clean condition with no notable signs of wear. The original oversized crown is also in excellent condition. The screw down case back exhibits almost no signs of use and retains its concentric brushed finish. The movement also retains its antimagnetic iron cap. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap with an era-correct 18K rose gold Patek Philippe tang buckle. DIAL & HANDS The original two-toned silver dial co-signed by Hausmann & Co. is truly magnificent, featuring a warm satin center dial housing the hands and markers while the metallic outer dial ring houses the black enameled minute track. The dial itself exhibits very few imperfections for its age, mostly invisible to the naked eye, though there are a few minor spots of age when inspected under magnification. The rose gold markers, including the Arabic numerals at 12, 3, and 9 o'clock, feature a varying degree of oxidation expected for the age of the watch. The original rose gold feuille or leaf hour and minute hands, along with the sub-seconds hand, are in exceptional condition as well, showing nominal oxidation. ACCESSORIES
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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