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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Orator Oversize Calatrava 1940s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Orator (maker)
Date
1940s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 38 mm
Stock no.
W-706
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-706)
Catalogue title (original)
Orator Oversize Calatrava 1940s (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-706), this is a wristwatch by Orator, dated 1940s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 38 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

The Oversize Salmon Dial Dress Watch We have always been big fans of the oversize dress watches from the 1940s. Today we offer another unusual example from Orator. These cases are unusually large for the era, measuring 38mm, and this example remains in outstanding condition. This watch has another level of cool thanks to the salmon dial with unusual even-number Arabic numerals and floating triangle odd-numbers hour markers. The watch houses a manual-wind movement and has the original winding crown. The watch has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. Specifications - Orator Calatrava style dress watch - Dates to 1940s - Large 38mm stainless steel case - Beautiful salmon dial - Manual wind movement - Fully serviced by our watchmaker - Includes a handmade single leather watch pouch

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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