
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Movado Super Sub-Sea Chronograph (Ref. 95-704-541) "Cal. M95", 1960s
- Maker / attribution
- Movado (maker)
- Date
- 1960s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- MOVSSSM95
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (MOVSSSM95)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1960s Movado Super Sub-Sea Chronograph (Ref. 95-704-541) "Cal. M95" (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number MOVSSSM95), this is a wristwatch by Movado, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
As far back as the 1930s, Movado was trading in water-resistant wristwatches, and by the early '60s, they were producing dive watches built to stand up to the era's greater-known offerings from names like Rolex, Omega, Heuer & Tudor. The Super Sub Sea is quite possibly the most desirable of Movado's dive watches during this era, and this ref. 95-704-541 is an absolute rarity. The earliest variations of this chronograph contain the M95 movement that was first developed by Piguet, which just happens to have the distinction of being the first modular chronograph movement ever produced. Of course, at first glance, you may think that this is a Zenith reference A277 as they almost look identical. And to be sure, both references were manufactured at a time when Movado and Zenith worked closely together under the same parent company. But this one is a piece all its own - something we like to call a "Time Capsule" due to the fact that it is in flawless vintage condition. And with these Sub Sea Chronographs becoming increasingly difficult to find—especially in this condition—this is an especially unique opportunity to own one of the coolest dive watches from the dive watch golden era. SPECS Stock # MOVSSSM95 Brand Movado Style Super Sub Sea Chronograph Model 95-704-541 Serial 29X Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Black " Reverse-Panda" Millimeters 40 Bracelet Single-Pass NATO Strap CASE & BRACELET The 40-millimeter case features wide set lugs and appears to have been minimally polished in the past, as the lugs retain factory chamfers, finishing, and dimensions with honest signs of use. The rare rotating bezel remains deep black in color and is in excellent condition, showing light signs of use but no excessive wear, and retains its tritium triable at the 12 o'clock position, which matches the dial perfectly. It retains its original Movado-signed crown set between two pump pushers. The case back is clean, and though the factory markings have slightly faded, they all remain legible and intact. The watch will be supplied on a single-pass nylon NATO strap. DIAL & HANDS The "reverse panda" dial colorway pairs an inky black glossy dial with gilt printing and silver sub-dials that have achieved a champagne-colored patina. The aged sub-dials match the gilt printing perfectly for a stunning aesthetic effect. Overall, the condition of the dial is near-flawless, with no notable age or damage present on the dial itself and no marks or damage present on the sub-dials either. The tritium lume at the hour indices, as well as in the hour and minute hands, has aged to vivid golden coloration; there is no major degradation to report when the dial is inspected under U.V. light. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time and functioning perfectly, the previous service history is unknown.
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Chronographs and split-seconds watches
A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.
Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.
What to look for
- Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
- Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
- Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
- Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).
Dating clues
- Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
- Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
- Automatic chronographs: from 1969.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph
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