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Movado Rectangular Dress Watch (Ref. 12246) "Cal. C440", 1930s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Movado Rectangular Dress Watch (Ref. 12246) "Cal. C440", 1930s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Movado (maker)
Date
1930s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
MOV12246
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (MOV12246)
Catalogue title (original)
1930s Movado Rectangular Dress Watch (Ref. 12246) "Cal. C440" (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number MOV12246), this is a wristwatch by Movado, made in Switzerland, dated 1930s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Movado may just be the perfect example of the joy of vintage watches in relation to their modern counterparts. In the mid-century, Movado competed with the likes of Rolex and Patek Philippe for design accolades and market share, establishing themselves as a premium manufacturer. One whose influence is still very much felt today. Drawing close inspiration from the Cartier Tank Cintree that was very popular in the same era, this 1930s Movado ref. 12246 features a long, yet thin case that perfectly curves with the wrist for a suave and sophisticated appearance that emanates Art Deco style. SPECS Stock # MOV12246 Brand Movado Style Rectangular Dress Watch Model 12246 Serial 45XXXX Size Men's/ Unisex Material Stainless steel Dial Silver "Aged" W/ Breguet Numerals Millimeters 20x42.5 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The beautifully curved stainless steel case has been lightly polished in the past and retains excellent bevels and dimensions throughout. The partially recessed unsigned crown is believed to be original to the watch. The case back is in excellent condition and shows mild wear. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade vintage-style pigskin leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The original silver dial with applied Breguet numerals is very well-preserved for a non-waterproof watch from the 1930s, however, the aging that is present is tasteful and provides a unique vintage aesthetic. The Breguet numerals are in excellent condition with minor oxidation present. The hands appear to be original and match the aesthetic of the dial perfectly, with minor oxidation present from age. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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