Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Movado Novoplan ref. 12205, Grey 'Fab Suisse' Dial
- Maker / attribution
- Movado (maker)
- Date
- c. 1930s
- Historical period
- Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 18 mm
- Stock no.
- OC2944
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC2944)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Movado Novoplan Ref. 12205 - Grey 'Fab Suisse' Dial (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC2944), this is a wristwatch by Movado, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1930s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 18 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke
While it may be hard to imagine based upon their product line today, Movado Factories (yes, that was the full name) once made watches that were beautifully designed, exceptionally-well made, and respected on a level that matched the very best manufacturers. Some of their more sought-after models include the M90 and M95 chronographs of the 1940s - 1970s, the Sub-Sea range, and both time-only and complicated pieces that utilized case designs shared with brands like Patek Philippe, Mido, and DOXA. Those are all great models. We love them, and even collect them, but it allows for lesser-known pieces to slide through the cracks for most collectors... Take the watch that we have here for example: a Novoplan Ref. 12205 dating to circa the 1930s. It features a rectangular 18mm x 38mm stainless steel case with a curved back and lovely 'stepping' on the upper and lower case. The grey dial within presents nicely, with a largely clean surface showing just a light patina throughout and clear black printing. The dial is complimented by a vibrant blued-steel 'arrow' handset, which are mated to Movado's own Calibre C440 manual-winding movement beneath. Simple, timeless elegance. Not many brands can do it better...
Historical context
Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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