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Movado M95 Sub-Sea 'Panda' Chronograph, c. 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Movado (maker)
Date
c. 1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
40991509
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40991509)
Catalogue title (original)
Movado M95 Sub-Sea 'Panda' Chronograph (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40991509), this is a wristwatch by Movado, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Founders Select In my estimation, vintage Movado is a sleeping giant that is just beginning to stir. From pre-war chronometers and dress watches to mid-century chronographs and golden-era sporting watches, the brand history is incredible, and for the time being largely overlooked by the collector community. Take this panda-dialed M95 from the 60s - just LOOK at it! See what I mean? -James Lamdin Movado released water-resistant wristwatches as early as 1935, and by the 1960s was producing dive watches to compete with the era's better known offerings from brands such as Rolex or Omega. The Sub-Sea range consisted of divers and chronographs alike, with plenty of variety in case size, dial variations, and movement offerings. Dating to circa the 1960s, this Sub-Sea Chronograph is an absolute gem of a mid-century chronograph to rival the best. With a 35mm stainless steel case by François Borgel — better knows for manufacturing cases for Patek Philippe (who, by the way, used Borgel cases on their waterproof chronographs at the same time) — it features lovely faceted lugs with a signed crown, a desirable white 'panda' dial with black sub registers and applied indices, and Movado's Calibre M95 manual winding chronograph movement inside. No doubt a stunner of a piece, the Sub-Sea range is functional and packs some serious horological chops. These have slipped under the radar of most collectors, and examples with a sharp, defined case with thick lugs and a clean dial dont pop up as often as you might think, and we're always happy to have one come through. Though, they dont last!

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Chronographs and split-seconds watches

A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.

Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.

What to look for

  • Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
  • Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
  • Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
  • Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).

Dating clues

  • Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
  • Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
  • Automatic chronographs: from 1969.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph

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