Movado M95 Sub-Sea Chronograph, c. late 1950s — view 1 of 6 — View 1 of 6 · Image: Analog/Shift · original image source (opens another website in a new tab)

View 1 of 6 · Image: Analog/Shift · original image source (opens another website in a new tab)

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Movado M95 Sub-Sea Chronograph, c. late 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.

Maker / attribution: Movado (maker)
Date: c. late 1950s
Historical period: Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Country of origin: Switzerland
Object type: Wristwatch
Dimensions: Case 35 mm
Dealer: Analog/Shift (dealer), New York
Stock no.: 40991285
Credit line: Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40991285)
Catalogue title (original): Movado M95 Sub-Sea Chronograph (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40991285), this is a wristwatch by Movado, made in Switzerland, dated c. late 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Movado released water-resistant wristwatches as early as 1935, and by the 1960s was producing dive watches to compete with the era's better known offerings from brands such as Rolex or Omega. The Sub-Sea range consisted of divers and chronographs alike, with plenty of variety in case size, dial variations, and movement offerings. Dating to circa the late 1950s - early 1960s, this Sub-Sea Chronograph is an absolute gem of a mid-century chronograph to rival the best. With a 35mm stainless steel case by François Borgel — better knows for manufacturing cases for Patek Philippe (who, by the way, used Borgel cases on their waterproof chronographs at the same time) — it features lovely faceted lugs with a signed crown, a lovely, brushed silver dial with applied indices and recessed sub registers, and Movado's Calibre M95 manual winding chronograph movement inside. No doubt a stunner of a piece, the Sub-Sea range is functional and packs some serious horological chops. These have slipped under the radar of most collectors, and examples with a sharp, defined case with thick lugs and a clean dial dont pop up as often as you might think, and we're always happy to have one come through. Though, they dont last!

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timeline More wristwatches from this period Earlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Chronographs and split-seconds watches

A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.

Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.

What to look for

Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).

Dating clues

Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
Automatic chronographs: from 1969.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Mechanisms mentioned

Chronograph — Complication

Record completeness

Maker or attributionRecorded
DateRecorded
Place or countryRecorded
MaterialsNot in source
DimensionsRecorded
Narrative descriptionRecorded
Inscriptions / marksNot in source
ProvenanceNot in source
Several photographsRecorded

Editorial status: Documented — facts as published by the source; not independently verified by Atlas editors.

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Sources & image rights

Record source: Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (opens another website in a new tab).

Image rights: © Analog/Shift — dealer photographs; permission required (opens another website in a new tab).

Images are hosted by the Atlas for study and credited to their owner. Rights holders may request correction, credit changes or removal, or grant permission, via the editorial office.

Cite this record

"Movado M95 Sub-Sea Chronograph, c. late 1950s." Analog/Shift (dealer), New York, 40991285. Catalogue record in The Horology Atlas, WatchMuseum.org, https://atlas.watchmuseum.org/museum/movado-m95-sub-sea-chronograph-a763ee.