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Movado M95 Chronograph ref. 19038, 'Sub Sea' Satin Silver Dial — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Movado M95 Chronograph ref. 19038, 'Sub Sea' Satin Silver Dial

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Movado (maker)
Date
c. early 1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
silver
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
OC3159
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC3159)
Catalogue title (original)
Movado M95 Chronograph Ref. 19038 - 'Sub Sea' Satin Silver Dial (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC3159), this is a wristwatch by Movado, made in Switzerland, dated c. early 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

While it may be hard to imagine based upon their product line today, Movado Factories (yes, that was the full name) once made watches that were beautifully designed, exceptionally-well made, and respected on a level that matched the very best manufacturers. The piece that we have here, an M95 Chronograph, is simply named after the Movado Manufacture M95 movement powering it. Over the years, these were produced with a variety of dial and case configurations, with this example having been produced on the later end dating to circa the early 1960s. The 35mm 'waterproof' case shares a similar design and in fact, the same case-maker as properly heavy hitting references from this era. That is, of course, François Borgel. It features gorgeous 'stepped' finishing on the top case, with dynamic, faceted lugs, a screw-down caseback, 'pump' pushers, and a 'domed' crown. The condition of this example is excellent, with strong factory finishing present throughout and the correct crown and pushers. Inside, the dial is one of the more 'sporty' variants, with a satin silver color throughout, applied Tritium-filled 'dart' indices, and a matching handset with red chronograph hands. Additionally, a very thoughtful and almost funny detail often found on Movado chronographs is how Movado chose to actually apply 'cropped' numerals around subsidiary registers where appropriate, in this case, at the 3, 6, & 9 o'clock positions. This detail is a great example of Movado exercising their prowess in design and manufacturing during this time and is an incredibly thoughtful detail that they easily could have skipped and nobody would have thought twice about it. Of course, this piece is powered by Movado's fantastic in-house Calibre M95 manually-wound movement. Both M95s and M90s have become extremely coveted by collectors and don't come to market as often as you may think... This piece, in its well-rounded and honest overall condition, is yet another example of the amazing value that Movado from this era offers. In our opinion, and we know there are a handful of other dealers and enthusiasts out there that share this viewpoint, there are not many brands that get design this right. Simple as that.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Chronographs and split-seconds watches

A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.

Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.

What to look for

  • Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
  • Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
  • Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
  • Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).

Dating clues

  • Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
  • Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
  • Automatic chronographs: from 1969.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph

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