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Movado Kingmatic Sub-Sea 18K YG (Ref. 5261), 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Movado Kingmatic Sub-Sea 18K YG (Ref. 5261), 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Movado (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
MOVKMSS5261
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (MOVKMSS5261)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s Movado Kingmatic Sub-Sea 18K YG (Ref. 5261) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number MOVKMSS5261), this is a wristwatch by Movado, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

The Movado Kingmatic stands as a perfect example of why vintage Movado remains so compelling today. During the mid-century era, Movado competed directly with the likes of Rolex and Patek Philippe, establishing itself as one of the premier watchmakers of the period through a combination of innovative design, refined aesthetics, and exceptional manufacturing standards. While the brand’s modern identity is often associated with minimalist design, vintage Movado tells a far richer story, one deeply rooted in technical achievement and elegant watchmaking. Presented here, the solid 18K yellow gold Kingmatic Sub-Sea perfectly captures that balance between luxury and utility. Beginning in the 1930s, Movado introduced water-resistant wristwatches under the “Sub-Sea” designation, a hallmark later carried into the brand’s more robust sports and dive watches of the 1950s and 1960s. Unlike many manufacturers of the era, Movado extended this water-resistant engineering across even its dress-focused references, resulting in sophisticated pieces like this ref. 5261. With its elegant proportions, solid gold construction, and understated mid-century styling paired with the practical Sub-Sea capability, the Kingmatic represents an especially refined interpretation of the classic waterproof dress watch. SPECS Stock # MOVKMSS5261 Brand Movado Style Kingmatic Sub-Sea Model 5261 Serial 53X Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Silver Millimeters 35 Strap 2pc Handmade Black Alligator Strap CASE & BRACELET The classically designed, 18K yellow gold case remains in exceptional condition, exhibiting only gentle wear and light evidence of being polished in the past. The case retains its original crown, adorned with the Movado logo, which exhibits minor wear. The screw-down case back shows minimal signs of use and retains the "Kingmatic" medallion. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc black alligator leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The original silver sunburst dial features gold applied markers and remains in exceptional vintage condition overall, showing no damage and only minor age. The small tritium lume plots located at the tip of each marker exhibit some degradation throughout, though most remain present. The original yellow gold hands are also in excellent condition, though the lume in the hour hands is no longer present. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is running, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be purchased upon request.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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