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Movado Chronograph (Ref. 9038) "Cal. M95", 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Movado Chronograph (Ref. 9038) "Cal. M95", 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Movado (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
MOVM95
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (MOVM95)
Catalogue title (original)
1950s Movado Chronograph (Ref. 9038) "Cal. M95" (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number MOVM95), this is a wristwatch by Movado, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Movado may just be the perfect example of the joy of vintage watches in relation to their modern counterparts. In the mid-century, Movado competed with the likes of Rolex and Patek Philippe for design accolades and market share, establishing themselves as a premium manufacturer. One whose influence is still very much felt today. The Movado M95 chronographs, for example, remain today as some of the most sought-after, collectible, and incredibly beautiful wristwatches to come out of the mid-century era of watch design. While many Movado references employ the M95 movement, the M95 watches as a whole have captivated collectors since its creation, especially those with cases manufactured by Francios Borgel, the case maker responsible for iconic Patek Phillipe references such as the ref. 1463 Tasti Tondi and reference 565. SPECS Stock # MOVM95 Brand Movado Style Chronograph "Cal. M95" Model 9038 Serial A10XXXX Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Black Gilt Millimeters 35 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The incredible 18K yellow gold Bogel-designed case is in truly remarkable condition, featuring truly crisp geometry through the stepped bezel and multi-angeled straight lugs. The original finishing remains strong through the mid-case as well, with no obvious evidence of previous polishing, deep hallmarks, and honest signs of gentle use present. The case retains its original and characteristic board pump pushers, and the crown is believed to be original as well. The screw-down case back is also very well-preserved and crisp, with only minimal wear present from previous use. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade shell cordovan leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The original and genuinely stunning black gilt dial is in superb condition, with the perfect amount of patina to excite the vintage enthusiast while exhibiting no real damage of note. The gold gilt text remains fully intact and vibrant throughout the dial. The sub-dials also remain clean and share the same patina as the main dial, while also retaining the original kris-style hands in the 3 and 6 o'clock sub-dials, the 9 o'clock sub-dial features a standard straight hand which is also original and correct for the watch. The gold hour, minute, and chronograph hands are also original and in excellent condition. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Chronographs and split-seconds watches

A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.

Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.

What to look for

  • Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
  • Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
  • Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
  • Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).

Dating clues

  • Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
  • Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
  • Automatic chronographs: from 1969.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph

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