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Movado Calendograf ref. 44820, Multi-Tone Silver Dial — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Movado Calendograf ref. 44820, Multi-Tone Silver Dial

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Movado (maker)
Date
c. 1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
silver
Dimensions
Case 34.5 mm
Stock no.
Product 15434925867325
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (product 15434925867325)
Catalogue title (original)
Movado Calendograf Ref. 44820 - Multi-Tone Silver Dial Unpolished (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number Product 15434925867325), this is a wristwatch by Movado, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver. Recorded dimensions: Case 34.5 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

While it may be hard to imagine based upon their product line today, Movado Factories (yes, that was the full name) once made watches that were beautifully designed, exceptionally-well made, and respected on a level that matched the very best manufacturers. Some of their more sought-after models include the M90 and M95 chronographs of the 1940s - 1970s, the Sub-Sea range, and both time-only and complicated pieces that utilized case designs shared with brands like Patek Philippe, Mido, and DOXA. The piece that we have here, a Calendograf, is one of Movado's many calendar and triple calendar models. Dating to circa the 1950s, it features a 34.5mm 14k yellow gold case with beautiful 'banded' profiles, stylized lugs, 'micro-pushers' on the right case profile, and a snapback caseback. The multi-tone silver inside is as gorgeous as the case and beautfully preserved. There is a very light, warm patina present across the surface with excellent printing throughout, applied gold-tone 'dot' and 'Arabic' indices, and a matching gold-tone 'lance' handset typing it all together. The symmetrical layout of the dial is also wonderful, with the Movado text on the top, day and month apertures flanking the center post, and a running seconds register on the lower half. Of course, this piece is powered by Movado's fantastic in-house Calibre 475 manually-wound movement. Both M95 and M90 chronographs have become extremely coveted by collectors, and its just a patter of time until collectors begin to realize the incredible value that these complicated calendar watches offer. Oh, and this reference with this dial configuration was owned and worn by one Sir Winston Churchill. In our opinion, and we know there are a handful of other dealers and enthusiasts out there that share this viewpoint, there are not many brands that get design this right. Simple as that.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

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