Moricand Beautiful Lady, circa 1780 — view 1 of 2
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

Moricand Beautiful Lady, circa 1780

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Moricand (brand / maker)
Date
circa 1780
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Dimensions
46 mm.
Lot
Lot 381-171
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 171
Catalogue title (original)
MORICAND, SWITZERLAND, BEAUTIFUL LADY, FINELY PAINTED ENAMEL, 18K YELLOW GOLD

View the source record (auction lot) ↗

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 381-171), this is a pocket watch by Moricand, made in Switzerland, dated circa 1780. The Atlas places it in the Precision & Scientific Horology period (1750 – 1850) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: 46 mm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A very fine and rare, 18k gold, manual wind painted on enamel and pearl-set, pocket watch with painted on enamel dial. The bezels set with split pearls, the back set with a painted on enamel portrait of a lady leaning over a pearl-set basket on a plinth decorated with gold paillons. The center of the dial is painted with a putto holding a signature banner over a landscape. Gold hands.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Caliber: 39 mm, hinged, gilt brass full plate with turned pillars, fusee and chain, verge escapement with micrometric potence adjustment, plain brass three-arm balance, flat balance spring, continental cock with polished steel endplate, silvered regulation dial.; Movement No.: 31850; Signature: Dial and movement signed, case numbered and punched SD on the pendant.

Historical context

Precision & Scientific Horology (1750 – 1850)

Harrison solves longitude; Mudge invents the lever; Breguet's Paris workshop defines the modern watch.

From 1750 to 1850 the watch became a precision instrument. Mudge's lever escapement, the cylinder escapement, Lépine's thin bar calibre, Breguet's innovations (overcoil, tourbillon, perpétuelle) and the pocket chronometer of Arnold and Earnshaw all date from this period, while verge watches remained common in cheaper production.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Early Modern Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

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