
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Lemania Chronograph Two-Tone Silver Dial cal. 320, 1950
- Maker / attribution
- Lemania (maker)
- Date
- 1950
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- silver
- Dimensions
- Case 35 mm
- Stock no.
- W-3800
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3800)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Lemania Chronograph Two-Tone Silver Dial cal. 320 (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3800), this is a wristwatch by Lemania, made in Switzerland, dated 1950. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Bulang & Sons
Alfred Lugrin, a highly skilled watchmaker trained at Jaeger-LeCoultre, founded his workshop in 1884 in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux — a region long regarded as the heart of traditional Swiss watchmaking. From the outset, the firm specialised in the production of highly complicated pocket watch movements, including repeaters, chronographs, and precision stopwatches. Between 1928 and 1930, the company officially adopted the name “Lemania Watch Co.”, inspired by Lac Léman — the French name for Lake Geneva. During the economic challenges of the Great Depression, Lemania joined forces with Omega SA and Tissot to form the SSIH group (Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère), a strategic alliance that helped secure the future of all three brands. Within this structure, Lemania became the primary movement supplier for Omega, a partnership that would go on to define some of the most important chronographs in watchmaking history. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, Lemania developed a series of legendary calibres, most notably the CH27 — later known within Omega as the Calibre 321. This movement would go on to power the Omega Speedmaster and ultimately become the first mechanical chronograph flight-qualified by NASA for manned space missions. From the 1950s through the 1970s, Lemania also became a key supplier of wrist chronographs for the British Armed Forces, including pieces issued to the Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm and the Royal Air Force — further cementing its reputation for precision, reliability, and true tool-watch functionality. The watch presented here is a beautiful 1950s chronograph housed in a 35 mm steel case with snap case back and square pushers. The matte silver dial is elegantly balanced, featuring a brushed silver minute track, rose gold applied Arabic numerals on the even positions, and arrow-shaped applied markers on the uneven positions. Blued chronograph hands and two recessed registers complete the design with classic symmetry and depth. The watch is fitted with a Bulang and Sons leather strap, and the manual-wind Calibre 320 has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. A wonderfully honest and collectible piece from one of Switzerland’s great movement specialists! Specifications: Lemania Two register Chronograph 35mm steel case, snap-back case-back, square pushers Case No. 172xxx/ movement no 627xxx dating to 1950’s Matte silver dial with brushed minute track and applied rose gold indexes Rose gold hands Lemania Caliber 320 movement , handwound Bulang and sons leather strap Fully serviced by our watchmaker
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Chronographs and split-seconds watches
A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.
Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.
What to look for
- Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
- Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
- Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
- Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).
Dating clues
- Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
- Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
- Automatic chronographs: from 1969.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph
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