
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Lemania Chronograph cal 28.9 Black Military Dial, 1930
- Maker / attribution
- Lemania (maker)
- Date
- 1930
- Historical period
- Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 37 mm
- Stock no.
- W-3804
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3804)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Lemania Chronograph cal 28.9 Black Military Dial (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3804), this is a wristwatch by Lemania, made in Switzerland, dated 1930. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 37 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Bulang & Sons
Alfred Lugrin, a highly skilled watchmaker who trained at Jaeger-LeCoultre, founded his workshop in 1884 in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux — a region long regarded as the heart of traditional Swiss watchmaking. From the very beginning, the company specialized in producing highly complicated pocket watch movements, including repeaters, chronographs, and precision stopwatches. Between 1928 and 1930, the company officially adopted the name "Lemania Watch Co.," inspired by Lac Léman, the French name for Lake Geneva. During the economic hardships of the Great Depression, Lemania joined forces with Omega and Tissot to form the SSIH group (Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère), a move that helped secure the future of all three brands. Within the group, Lemania became the primary movement supplier to Omega, a partnership that would go on to shape some of the most important chronographs ever produced. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, Lemania developed a series of legendary calibres, most notably the celebrated CH27 movement, later known at Omega as the Calibre 321. This movement would go on to power the Omega Speedmaster and eventually became the first and only mechanical chronograph movement flight-qualified by NASA for manned space missions. From the 1950s through the 1970s, Lemania also established itself as the sole manufacturer of wrist chronographs issued to the British Armed Forces, including highly regarded models supplied to the Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm and the Royal Air Force, cementing the brand’s reputation for precision, reliability, and true tool-watch functionality. Offered here is a handsome Lemania two-register chronograph from the 1930s. The watch features a 37 mm case with a snap-back caseback and olive-shaped pushers, all preserved in fine condition. The rare black dial is particularly attractive, featuring a mileage scale along the outer rim, cream-coloured Arabic numerals, and a distinctive snail-style Base 1000 scale. The elegant white leaf-shaped hands complete the beautifully balanced design. This fine chronograph is powered by the hand-wound Lemania Calibre 28.9 and has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. Specifications: Lemania Two register Chronograph 37mm steel case with snap back case back , olive pushers Case No. 64xxx- dating to 1930's Black “snail “ dial, non luminous and Arabic numerals , with white leaf style hands Lemania Caliber 28.9 movement Comes on the photographed Bulang and sons leather strap Fully serviced by our watchmaker
Historical context
Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution
Atlas type guide
Chronographs and split-seconds watches
A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.
Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.
What to look for
- Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
- Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
- Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
- Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).
Dating clues
- Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
- Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
- Automatic chronographs: from 1969.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph
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