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Jaeger-LeCoultre Vacheron Constantin "Mystery Dial" Cocktail Watch 14K WG, 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Jaeger-LeCoultre Vacheron Constantin "Mystery Dial" Cocktail Watch 14K WG, 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Jaeger-LeCoultre (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
JLCVCWGCW
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (JLCVCWGCW)
Catalogue title (original)
1950s Jaeger-LeCoultre Vacheron Constantin "Mystery Dial" Cocktail Watch 14K WG (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number JLCVCWGCW), this is a wristwatch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Antoine LeCoultre created the LeCoultre brand in 1833 with the intent of crafting movement blanks (or unfinished movements) for some of Switzerland's most prestigious watchmaking houses, including Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. Nearly a hundred years later, in 1937, LeCoultre merged with the Jaeger brand to form Jaeger-LeCoultre and become the brand we know and love today. Jaeger-LeCoultre is often referred to by collectors as “the watchmaker’s watchmaker” and it is easily one of the industry’s most celebrated luxury timepiece brands. Although the manufacturer’s archives are packed full of interesting and noteworthy designs, few are as eye-catching and mesmerizing as this super unique midcentury Cocktail Watch, and this one is actually co-branded with Vacheron Constantin. Featuring a solid 14k white gold case, applied diamond index markers, and diamond stones in place of the traditional watch hands, it's an incredibly rare piece and a shining example of why JLC & VC are of the most respected brands in the business. SPECS Stock # JLCVCWGCW Brand Jaeger-LeCoultre Vacheron Constantin Style Cocktail Watch Model N/A Serial N/A Size Unisex Material 14K White Gold Dial Silver W/ Diamonds Millimeters 33 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The excellent 14k white gold case has been gently polished in the past and retains straight, symmetrical lugs that display very minimal signs of use. The case retains its original crown. The case back is clean and features its original branding marks elegantly engraved around the perimeter. The watch will be supplied on a handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The silver dial is midcentury design at its finest and in lovely vitnage condition with sutble age present. The dial features applied diamond index markers for each of the hours. The non-traditional hour and minute indicators are what give this watch its nickname of a "mystery dial", consisting of rotating disks with single diamonds that give the illusion of the hour and minutes indicators floating on the dial. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is running, previous service history is unknown.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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