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Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier (Ref. 1670.42) "Retailed By Hermès", 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier (Ref. 1670.42) "Retailed By Hermès", 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Jaeger-LeCoultre (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
JLCCH167042
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (JLCCH167042)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier (Ref. 1670.42) "Retailed By Hermès" (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number JLCCH167042), this is a wristwatch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Jaeger-LeCoultre has been one of the leading watch manufacturers and more impressively watch movement manufacturers since the early 1900s, though their dignified roots date all the way back to 1844. Jaeger-LeCoultre or "JLC" for short, produced some of the most important movements for other manufacturers including Patek Philippe, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. JLC also created a multitude of its own extraordinary watches throughout the company's tenure as one of the leading Swiss watchmaking houses. The relationship between the famed luxury design house Hermès and Jaeger-LeCoultre can be dated back to 1928, with both houses continuously collaborating on timepieces to be created by JLC and offered by Hermès until 1972. Jaeger-LeCoultre, being a master of mechanical watchmaking, often referred to as "the watchmaker's watchmaker", supplied the movements and handled the overall case manufacturing while Hermès lent their inspiration and creativity for the overall design. The Étrier timepieces, a name which roughly translates to "stirrup" in English, directly coincides with the equestrian background of Hermès, a theme that has been consistent for the luxury brand since its inception with such motifs being seen in cufflinks, rings, and other accessories even today. The Italian collectors were early in their interest with these collaborative timepieces, as they usually are, and gave the watch the nickname "Lucchetto" or "padlock" for its close resemblance in design. Though not all Étrier models were cobranded directly with Hermès, actually very few were, so the examples that are branded Hermès remain especially sought-after, especially today, as the collector spirit for both Hermès and vintage timepieces is more expansive than ever before. Stock # JLCCH167042 Brand Jaeger-LeCoultre For Hermes Style Étrier "Luchetto" Model 1670.42 Serial 140XXXX Size Women's / Unisex Material Stainless Steel Dial Silver "Co-Signed Hermès" Millimeters Watch case: 20x15mm, Lug to Lug: 35mm Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap W/ JLC SS Tang Buckle CASE & BRACELET The unique "stirrup" case design offers a beautifully elegant wrist presence that would suit both a woman's or a man's wrist. While the rectangular case itself measures quite small, the long curved lugs substantially extend off the case to increase the overall size of the watch. The case itself is in superb condition, showing very minimal signs of use. The Jaeger-LeCoultre signed crown is original to the watch and is located on the 6 o'clock side of the case. The original factory engravings, including the Hermès engravings, remain in deep and crisp condition. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc navy blue alligator strap with the original unsigned JLC stainless steel tang buckle. DIAL & HANDS The original silver sunburst dial that is cosigned by Hermès is in near-perfect condition, showing no damage and only invisible elements of age. The original black enamel-filled hands are flawless. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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