
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Jaeger-LeCoultre Etrier ref. 1670.42, Gloss Black Dial 'Hermès' Retailed
- Maker / attribution
- Jaeger-LeCoultre (maker)
- Date
- c. 1960s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 20 mm
- Stock no.
- OC3085
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC3085)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Etrier Ref. 1670.42 - Gloss Black Dial 'Hermès' Retailed (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC3085), this is a wristwatch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 20 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke
Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the most well-rounded and storied brands in the history of watchmaking. They are not only known for models, but also, at least in the world vintage watches, equally known for their movements — a surprisingly unique accolade that is perhaps unmatched by any other brand. Be there no doubt, the most popular and well-known model from the brand is the properly iconic Reverso, but the brand offers so much more with model families like the Memovox, the Deep-Sea, and a wide range of complicated calendar watches. The collector community certainly knows it, but what is lesser-known are models like the stylish piece that we have here. Conceived amidst a long-term relationship between JLC and Hermès which dating back to 1928, the Etrier was designed to reflect Hermès ’ deep-rooted equestrian identity as the brand was gradually beginning to expand offerings beyond saddlery into person accessories. Drawing directly from the form of a horse’s stirrup, the design translated a functional riding element into a sculptural wristwatch case, embodying both utility and elegance. When Jaeger-LeCoultre later brought the concept into production, the model evolved into a refined yet unconventional timepiece that stood apart from more traditional round or rectangular watches of the era. The Etrier that we have here dates to circa the 1960s and is made from stainless steel and features a 20mm x 15mm rectangular case, which is 'suspended' between the pronounced lugs which span 35mm. The result makes for a surprisingly substantial and versatile feel on the wrist. The crown is nicely tucked away at the 6 o'clock position and is signed. Inside, the gloss black dial has applied indices, an applied logo at the 12 o'clock position, and a matching steel 'pencil' handset. Look a bit closer and you'll find that the dial features the Hermès name in addition to Jaeger-LeCoultre's text on the dial — something that not all Etrier models bear. Flip it over, and you'll find the Hermes stock number engraved on the caseback. In many ways, this piece has a ton to offer. Great overall condition, historically interesting, and uniquely styled... ...and for less than a steel Datejust, hard to beat!
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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