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IWC Portuguese (Ref. 325) Cal. 74 "Starry Night" Dial, 1943 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

IWC Portuguese (Ref. 325) Cal. 74 "Starry Night" Dial, 1943

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
IWC (maker)
Date
1943
Country of origin
Portugal
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
IWCPORT325
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (IWCPORT325)
Catalogue title (original)
1943 IWC Portuguese (Ref. 325) Cal. 74 "Starry Night" Dial W/ IWC Certificate of Authenticity (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number IWCPORT325), this is a wristwatch by IWC, made in Portugal, dated 1943. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Founded more than 150 years ago, the International Watch Company has grown to become one of the most recognizable Swiss watch brands on the planet. But even the most recognizable brands have those pieces that just seem to rise above the rest. For IWC it's the Portugieser models, which got their start—and their name—in the late 1930s when a wholesaler from Lisbon, Portugal, approached IWC with a request for a special order men's wristwatch with marine chronograph precision. These initial Portugieser models, which featured a sleek and gorgeous Calatrava case, clean and classic dial design, and a sub-seconds dial, were dubbed the ref. 325. The earliest of these references featured what has since become one of the brand's most iconic movements – the cal. 74. According to IWC, these cal. 74 fitted ref. 325 Portugiesers are extremely rare, with only around 300 ever being produced. One can only imagine how many are left in existence today. Which makes this piece even more remarkable than its otherworldly facade would indicate. Because this speckled dialed, "starry night" IWC is an incredibly rare, incredibly gorgeous piece that you can almost guarantee no one else will have. It's as classic—and classy—as they come and would look good on any wrist, in pretty much any setting. SPECS Stock # IWCPORT325 Brand IWC Style Portuguese Model 325 Serial 931XXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Black Millimeters 42 Bracelet 2pc CASE & BRACELET The large and noble stainless steel case is in impressively crisp condition, especially for the age of the watch, and shows minimal signs of use or previous polishing. The ornate unsigned crown is original to the watch. The case back retains an IWC factory sticker, likely from a more recent service. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc matte black alligator strap with an original IWC stainless steel tang buckle. DIAL & HANDS The original black gilt dial has taken on a fantastic, speckled patina that is reminiscent of a star-filled night sky. The radium lume Arabic numeral hour markers have aged to a dark grey color, causing the markers to slightly blend into the dial or be extremely pronounced depending on the lighting situation. The original pencil-style radium lumed hands have aged to a beige coloration and coordinated beautifully with the patina of the dial. Under U.V. light inspection the dial lume is all fully present with no notable degradation shown, the hands are also in excellent condition with the minute hands showing no degradation while the hour hand exhibits a minor spot of missing lume and remains stable. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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