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IWC Oversized Calatrava 18K YG "Cal. 89", 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

IWC Oversized Calatrava 18K YG "Cal. 89", 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
IWC (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
IWCCAL89-4
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (IWCCAL89-4)
Catalogue title (original)
1950s IWC Oversized Calatrava 18K YG "Cal. 89" (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number IWCCAL89-4), this is a wristwatch by IWC, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

IWC’s Caliber 89 was developed in 1946 after the previous IWC factory was destroyed during a World War II bombing. The Caliber 89 movement became a benchmark of watchmaking standards for the era and recreated the IWC brand as a whole. Although the Cal. 89 is relatively simple it was at the forefront of watchmaking technology for its time, using only the most advanced parts and materials. This is why the British military issued their pilots the IWC Mark XI with the Cal. 89 movement for over 30 years. This oversized IWC Calatrava in 18K yellow gold is truly incredible, with a Disco-Volatne-style stepped case and an even patina throughout the dial. This watch makes for either a highly reliable daily wearer or an occasion-only dress piece, either way, it was designed to last. SPECS Stock # IWCCAL89-4 Brand IWC Style Calatrava Model Cal. 89 Serial 11XXXXX Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Gold Millimeters 36.5 Bracelet 2pc Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The crisp 18K yellow gold stepped case is in truly magnificent condition, showing no major evidence of previous polishing as the original finishing remains present with the original hallmarks intact as well. The unsigned yellow gold crown is believed to be original. The case back retains its original hallmarks and exhibits signs of gentle wear from use. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The beautifully warm dial features an attractive and even patina throughout and remains in original condition throughout. The markers and minute track all remain fully intact and in excellent condition, exhibiting light elements of age. The original yellow gold hands display light oxidation and age in excellent condition. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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