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Cartier Ultra-Slim Dress Watch by Movado, 'Fab Suisse' Dial French Import — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Ultra-Slim Dress Watch by Movado, 'Fab Suisse' Dial French Import

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
c. 1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 32 mm
Stock no.
OC3011
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC3011)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Ultra-Slim Dress Watch by Movado - 'Fab Suisse' Dial French Import (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC3011), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 32 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

By the mid 1970s, Cartier has secured itself as a global name in luxury goods — namely jewelry, and of course, watches. But prior to this time, the maison was much smaller and produced far fewer goods. As such, anything prior to the early 1970s can be considered special, rare, and usually interesting... In fact, Cartier subcontracted a handful of other brands to produce watches for them: Movado, Piaget, Bulova, etc. The piece that we have here is one of those watches — manufactured by another notable brand that you may have heard of: Movado. If you've ever visited our website, you don't have to dive too deep to learn that we are HUGE Movado fans. That is, of pre 1980s Movado... Dating to circa the 1960s, this piece features a 32mm ultra-thin case constructed out of 18k yellow gold. Rotate it to the side, and its ultra-slim profile is immediately apparent, coming in at just under 5mm in thickness (or rather lack-thereof). It shows normal signs of wear throughout with no notable damage or inconsistencies and retails clear, defined hallmarks and engravings. Inside, the satin silver dial is nicely preserved, showing some light wear and aging with excellent printed black indices and Cartier script on the top half. The simple dial is complimented by an equally simple, black-painted 'pencil' handset. Powering this piece is an impressively thin manually-wound movement by Movado. Flip it over, and there are French import hallmarks clear and present, which match up with the 'Fab Suisse' text on the bottom half of the dial. In addition to quite simply being a beautiful example of 1950s-1960s design, this piece is a piece of a bygone era of Cartier history.... ... and we'll bet you don't see another anytime soon.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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