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Cartier Tonneau Jumbo "Paris" Guilloché dial Mechanic, 1990 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Tonneau Jumbo "Paris" Guilloché dial Mechanic, 1990

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1990
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 39 mm
Stock no.
W-3359
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3359)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Tonneau Jumbo "Paris" Guilloché dial Mechanic (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3359), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1990. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 39 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

We love the Tonneau on the wrist, as it feels so classy and from another era and yet very relevant for today’s tastes. The Cartier Tonneau was the second Cartier wristwatch, following the Santos Dumont, and was first launched in 1906. This example feels extra special as the “Sunray” style guilloché dial is signed PARIS a testimony this has sold through its flagship store in you guessed it , Paris . The 39 mm( with lugs excluded ) x 26mm yellow gold case remains in very good condition. The guilloche dial is super nice silver coloured . The watch is fitted with blued hands and has a blue cabochon-topped winding crown. The watch comes on the pictured leather strap that has a 18k gold Cartier folding buckle fitted. The manual wind movement has been fully checked by our watchmaker. We're passionate about the more unusual side of Cartier and always try to keep a unique mix of pieces available for fellow fans. If there's something specific you're after, just let us know! Specifications: Cartier Tonneau “Paris” 18k Yellow gold case measured without lugs 39x26 mm. Case number A104xxx dating to the 1990's Guilloché dial with Roman numerals Blued hands Blue cabochon winding crown Manual wind movement Coming on the photographed leather strap with Cartier folding clasp in 18k gold attached Fully checked by our watchmaker

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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