Cartier Tank Louis ref. 96065 'Extra Plate', Silver Guilloché Dial, early 1990s

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Cartier Tank was one of the first wristwatches. Full stop! Inspired by the Renault Tanks used on the battlefield in WWI — yes, true story. Revolutionary at the time, Louis Cartier took inspiration from the profile of the treads on a period Renault tank, and based the case on them by way of the of brancards doubling as the lugs themselves. Over the course of the 20 th Century, the Tank became the watch to wear. Silent movie stars like Rudolph Valentino, artists like Andy Warhol, and even Jackie Kennedy were all fans of the signature timepiece from the King of Jewelers and the Jeweler of Kings. An icon indeed in the truest sense of the word. The model was first introduced in a few different case shapes which bore different names that intertwine with the inspiration behind them. Perhaps the most significant, well-known, and debatably desirable of these first pieces, the Tank Louis Cartier, was introduced in 1922 and was named after Louis Cartier himself. When people think of a Cartier Tank, theres a good change that this is the model that comes to mind. The example that we have here is one of those pieces, with a few twists... Dating to the early 1990s, it features the classically-sized 23mm x 31mm rectangular case that you'd expect with a Tank Louis, but turn it on its side and its thickness, or rather lack-thereof, becomes apparent. Known as an 'Extra Plate', these pieces were produced in far fewer numbers than its contemporary Tank LCs, and with a higher-grade ultra thin movement from Frederic Piguet. This one comes to us in excellent, very likely unpolished condition, with clear and defined hallmarks and engravings on the caseback and correct proportions. Inside, rather than a flat white or enamel dial, this era of Cartier introduced a textured 'guilloché' finishing on the surface. The 'Roman' numeral indices we well as a 'chemin de fer' minute track are rendered in black and remain crisp and clear and the always beautiful blued-steel 'sword' handset well preserved. At 3 o'clock you'll find that ubiquitous blue sapphire cabochon crown to operate the manual-winding movement within. It comes fitted to a black alligator leather strap with a correct yellow gold deployant clasp. This is a fantastic riff on a classic. A Tank Louis Cartier with a hint of flair.