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Cartier Tank Louis ref. 78086, White Gold 'Paris' Dial — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Tank Louis ref. 78086, White Gold 'Paris' Dial

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
early 1970s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
white gold
Dimensions
Case 23 mm
Stock no.
OC2676
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC2676)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Tank Louis Ref. 78086 - White Gold 'Paris' Dial (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC2676), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated early 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: white gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 23 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Cartier Tank was one of the first wristwatches. Full stop! Inspired by the Renault Tanks used on the battlefield in WWI — yes, true story. Revolutionary at the time, Louis Cartier took inspiration from the profile of the treads on a period Renault tank, and based the case on them by way of the of brancards doubling as the lugs themselves. Over the course of the 20 th Century, the Tank became the watch to wear. Silent movie stars like Rudolph Valentino, artists like Andy Warhol, and even Jackie Kennedy were all fans of the signature timepiece from the King of Jewelers and the Jeweler of Kings. An icon indeed in the truest sense of the word. The model was first introduced in a few different case shapes which bore different names that intertwine with the inspiration behind them. Perhaps the most significant, well-known, and debatably desirable of these first pieces, the Tank Louis Cartier, was introduced in 1922 and was named after Louis Cartier himself. When people think of a Cartier Tank, theres a good change that this is the model that comes to mind. The example that we have here is one of those pieces. Dating to the early 1970s, it features the classically-sized 23mm x 31mm rectangular case that everyone loves, but rather than being crafted out of yellow gold, this example is of white gold. It comes to us in strong, nicely preserved overall condition, having been very lightly previously polished, with clear and defined hallmarks and correct factory proportions. It shows normal signs of wear and some sleeve-polish throughout from age and is devoid of any major damage. Inside, the white enamel 'Paris' signed dial inside retains its crisp white color and strong black printed text. When viewed under magnification, a faint and even 'crazing' is present throughout. Of course, it also features a blued-steel 'sword' handset, which is complimented by a blue sapphire cabochon winding crown at the 3 o'clock position. Last but not least, this example is accompanied by its period-correct Cartier signed white gold deployant clasp — a rare find! While production numbers are unclear, we probably see one white gold Tank for every twenty or so in yellow... This is a great opportunity to add what is not only a very uncommon Tank from this era, but a piece worthy of the iconic nomenclature that it bears to your collection.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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