
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Tank Louis Paris Dial (Ref. 78086), 1980s
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- 1980s
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 23 mm
- Stock no.
- Product 8675048095927
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8675048095927)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1980s Cartier Tank Louis Paris Dial - Unpolished (Ref. 78086) (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8675048095927), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 23 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Huntington Company
History and Significance Few watches have achieved the timeless status of the Cartier Tank. Since its introduction in 1917, its clean geometric lines have remained virtually untouched, proving that great design never needs to follow trends. The Tank Louis is widely regarded as the purest interpretation of that original concept, offering elegant proportions, precious metal construction, and effortless versatility. This 1980s reference 78086 embodies everything collectors love about the model. Its solid 18 karat yellow gold case has developed a warm, rich patina over decades of careful wear, giving the watch a character that simply cannot be recreated. The crisp Paris signed dial remains beautifully preserved, while the manual wind movement keeps the case remarkably slim and elegant on the wrist. Accompanying the watch is its original 18 karat yellow gold Cartier buckle, along with both its original strap and a new black alligator strap ready to be enjoyed. Finding examples that remain this honest is becoming increasingly difficult, making this one particularly appealing to collectors who value originality above all else. Writer’s Thoughts The Tank Louis is one of those rare watches that never feels out of place. It can disappear beneath the cuff of a suit just as easily as it can become the centerpiece of a casual outfit. That versatility is exactly what has made it an icon for over a century. This example stands out because of its condition. The untouched case has developed the kind of natural warmth that only decades of careful ownership can create, and the dial is about as clean as you could hope to find. It is easily one of the nicest examples of this reference we have had the pleasure of offering. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Cartier Model: Tank Louis Reference: 78086 Year: 1980s Case Material: 18 Karat Yellow Gold Case Size: 23mm x 30mm Dial: White Paris Dial Movement: Cartier Manual Wind Strap/Bracelet: New Black Alligator Strap with Original Cartier Strap Included Buckle/Clasp: Original 18 Karat Yellow Gold Cartier Buckle Contents: Watch only Condition Case: The solid 18 karat yellow gold case appears to remain unpolished, retaining excellent definition throughout with soft, even patina developed over decades of careful wear. Light surface marks are present and entirely consistent with an honest vintage example. Dial: The original Paris signed dial is in exceptional condition with crisp printing, clean Roman numerals, and no visible spotting, cracking, or discoloration. Hands: The blued steel hands remain original and are beautifully preserved with excellent color and finish. Crystal: The crystal is clean with almost no signs of wear. Strap/Bracelet: The watch comes fitted with a new black alligator strap and includes its original Cartier strap. Buckle/Clasp: The original solid 18-karat yellow gold Cartier buckle remains in excellent condition with honest signs of use.
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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