Cartier Tank Louis, 'New York' Manufactured by Audemars Piguet

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Cartier Tank was one of the first wristwatches. Full stop! Inspired by the Renault Tanks used on the battlefield in WWI — yes, true story. Revolutionary at the time, Louis Cartier took inspiration from the profile of the treads on a period Renault tank, and based the case on them by way of the of brancards doubling as the lugs themselves. Over the course of the 20 th Century, the Tank became the watch to wear. Silent movie stars like Rudolph Valentino, artists like Andy Warhol, and even Jackie Kennedy were all fans of the signature timepiece from the King of Jewelers and the Jeweler of Kings. An icon indeed in the truest sense of the word. The model was first introduced in a few different case shapes which bore different names that intertwine with the inspiration behind them. Perhaps the most significant, well-known, and debatably desirable of these first pieces, the Tank Louis Cartier, was introduced in 1922 and was named after Louis Cartier himself. When people think of a Cartier Tank, theres a good change that this is the model that comes to mind. The example that we have here is one of those pieces — though does have a secret... By the mid 1970s, Cartier has secured itself as a global name in luxury goods — namely jewelry, and of course, watches. But prior to this time, the maison was much smaller and produced far fewer goods. As such, anything prior to the early 1970s can be considered special, rare, and usually interesting... In fact, Cartier subcontracted a handful of other brands to produce watches for them: Movado, Piaget, Bulova, etc. This piece was produced in the late 1960s by none other than Audemars Piguet for Cartier New York. On the surface, it is nearly impossible to discern any differences between it and a French-made Tank from this era. It features the classic 23mm x 31mm rectangular case, with clear and defined hallmarks and engravings and correct factory proportions. It shows normal signs of wear throughout and is devoid of any major damage. Inside, the white dial exhibits patina from age, almost reminiscent of a 'marble' stone and bears a 'Swiss' signature at 6 o'clock. The black 'Roman' printing is beautifully-preserved and is complimented by a blued-steel 'sword' handset. Powering this piece is AP's Calibre K2001/1A ultra-thin manual-winding movement and it comes fitted to a black leather strap with a period-correct 18k Cartier deployant clasp. This is probably what you think of when you hear "Cartier Tank" and thats for good reason. This one has a rare hidden twist for one lucky owner and is worthy of the iconic nomenclature that it bears.