
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Tank Louis Manual Wound Ultra Thin in 18K Yellow Gold Silver "Guilloché" Dial Ref. 96065, 1990s
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- 18k yellow gold
- Stock no.
- W-3106
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3106)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Cartier Tank Louis Manual Wound Ultra Thin in 18K Yellow Gold Silver "Guilloché" Dial Ref. 96065 (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3106), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Bulang & Sons
This is a classic and elegant Ultra Thin Cartier Tank Louis, with all the hallmarks of the brand, including a silvered, hand-finished guilloché dial, painted Roman numerals, and a railroad track. The watch features blued hands and a blue cabochon-topped winding crown. Both the dial and case are in superb condition, with the dial also featuring a discreet Cartier logo at 7 o’clock. The standout feature of this watch is its movement. While the common 78086 typically uses the basic ETA-based 78-1 calibre, the 96065 and 96019 references are more coveted for their ultra-thin Cartier-branded Piguet 21 movement. This movement gives the 96065 its sleek "Ultra Thin" or "Extra Plate" nickname, making it a top choice for collectors seeking a slimmer, more refined profile. This prestige classic Tank is paired with a fine Bulang & Sons strap and an 18K yellow gold Cartier folding buckle. This fine Tank Louis has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. The Cartier Tank needs no introduction, but just in case: not only is it one of the oldest and most enduring watch designs, but it’s also one of the most sought-after models in the current market. Louis Cartier, the founder of the brand, invented the Cartier Tank in 1917. The shape and name of the Cartier Tank were inspired by the top-down view of a Renault FT-17, a French army tank used during World War I. There is a lot of love for Cartier at the moment, and we have a great track record of selling them. Please reach out if we can help you with more information! Specifications: - Cartier Tank Louis Reference 96065 Ultra Thin - 18K yellow gold case – 30x23mm - Serial 96065xxxx, dating to the 1990s - Rare silver hand-finished “Guilloché” dial with painted black Roman numerals - Blued hands - Blue cabochon-topped winder - Hand-wound Cartier branded Piaget cal. 21 movement - Fully serviced by our watchmaker
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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