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Cartier Tank LC 18K YG 'Extra Plate' (Ref. 96065) Flinque Dial, 1980 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Tank LC 18K YG 'Extra Plate' (Ref. 96065) Flinque Dial, 1980

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1980
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
CTRTLCEP96065
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CTRTLCEP96065)
Catalogue title (original)
1980 Cartier Tank LC 18K YG 'Extra Plate' (Ref. 96065) Flinque Dial W/ Box & Papers (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CTRTLCEP96065), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1980. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

The Cartier Tank has become one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, and other than some more eclectic references produced has remained relatively the same over its long run of production. The Cartier Tank was originally designed in 1917 and became commercially available in 1919, and its design was inspired by the Renault FT-17 tank used by the French Military in the First World War. Although the Cartier Tank appears to have remained the same for the course of its design life, there are some interesting anomalies that happened during its production run that resulted in very collectible and very rare timepieces. This Carter Tank Louis Cartier, or Tank LC, is best known amongst collectors as the "Extra Plate" or "Extra Thin" and is one of the thinnest Cartier watches ever produced and features a total thickness of 4.9mm including the crystal. This impressive feat is achieved through the utilization of the renowned Frederic Piguet Cal. 21 ultra-thin mechanical movement. Though this Cartier Tank LC Extra Plate is one of the thinnest watches Cartier ever made, it retains the standard height and width dimensions of the Tank LC in this era. This makes for a perfect dress timepiece, both beautiful and elegant with the added benefit of sliding under the shirt cuff with ease. This specific ref. 96065 also features the renowned "Flinque" dial, which is a painstaking dial-making process that involves a carved guilloché pattern that is then finished with a layer of enamel, creating a truly beautiful dial presentation with incredible depth. SPECS Stock # CTRTLCEP96065 Brand Cartier Style Tank LC "Extra Plate" Model 96065 Serial 52XX Size Men's / Unisex Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial White Roman "Flinque" Millimeters 23x30 Strap 2pc Handmade Black Alligator Strap W/ 18K YG Cartier Tang Buckle CASE & BRACELET The extra thin or "Extra Plate" 18K yellow gold case is exceptionally well-preserved, retaining crisp hallmarks, factory finishing, and dimensions throughout. The case gentle signs of use exhibits minimal evidence of previous polishing with light signs of honest use present, and it does appear that the top right case screw was replaced at some point. The original sloped-glass crystal is in clean condition, exhibiting no wear. The case retains its original blue sapphire cabochon crown. The case back features crisp finishing with deep hallmarks and factoring engravings. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc black alligator leather strap with the original 18K yellow gold Cartier tang buckle. DIAL & HANDS The original silvered white guilloché and enamel "Flinque" dial with black Roman numerals is in very well-preserved condition with no cracking present in the top lacquer of the dial and only minimal elements of age present in the form of spotting mostly seen at the dial edges. The original blued hands are also in excellent condition with no age or wear present. ACCESSORIES The watch comes as a complete set, featuring its original outer box which features the serial number of the watch, the inner presentation box, a Cartier card holder, and booklets. The watch is functioning and keeping time, previous service history is unknown.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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