
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Santos Dumont Ultra-Thin in 18kt Yellow Gold ref. 96054 Paris Dial, 1980s
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- 1980s
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- yellow gold
- Dimensions
- Case 36 mm
- Stock no.
- W-3964
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3964)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Cartier Santos Dumont Ultra-Thin in 18kt Yellow Gold ref. 96054 Paris Dial (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3964), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Bulang & Sons
Known as the Master of Shapes, Cartier has some of the most timeless, elegant and desirable watches under its belt. At hand is a very desirable Cartier Santos-Dumont in the big size and ultra-thin case. The Santos has one of the strongest stories in Cartier’s history. Its origins trace back to Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, for whom Louis Cartier created a wristwatch that could be read while flying without having to reach into a pocket. The Santos was officially introduced in 1911 and went on to become one of the earliest commercially produced men's wristwatches. The impressive 27 x 36 mm 18 k yellow gold case is in outstanding condition and measures just 4.2 mm thick, made possible by the incredibly slim manually wound F. Piguet movement. The case back is signed Paris, adding another lovely touch to this classic Cartier. The glossy white Paris-signed dial features classic Cartier painted black Roman numerals, elegant blued hands and the unmistakable blue sapphire cabochon winding crown. The watch comes fitted with the pictured Bulang & Sons leather strap and a gold Cartier pin buckle. We love the ultra-thin case — so cool on the wrist and a perfect example of Cartier doing what Cartier does best: shapes, proportions and elegance. The manual-wind F. Piguet movement has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. A very cool Cartier for the collector who appreciates the quieter side of the brand. Big size, yellow gold and ultra-thin — a proper little sleeper from the house of Cartier. We would love to share our passion for Cartier with you. Please arrange a visit or give us a call — we are waiting for you! Specifications: Cartier Santos Dumont “Utra thin” reference 96054 Serial 408xx dating to the 1980s 18 k Yellow gold case measures 27x36mm White Paris-signed dial with black Roman numerals Blued hands and sapphire cabochon F.Piguet /Cartier ultra thin calibre 21 manual wind movement Bulang and sons Leather strap with Cartier 18 k gold pin buckle Fully serviced by our watchmaker
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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