
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Santos Dumont Extra Plate Platinum, ref. 1575, circa 1990
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- c. 1990
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- Platinum
- Dimensions
- Diameter 27 mm
- Stock no.
- CUR274
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Watches of Knightsbridge (CUR274)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Cartier Santos Dumont Extra Plate Platinum 1575 (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Watches of Knightsbridge (dealer), London (stock number CUR274), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated c. 1990. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Platinum. Recorded dimensions: Diameter 27 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Watches of Knightsbridge
Cartier Santos Dumont Extra Plate reference 1575 in platinum, circa 1990. This watch features its original guilloché dial in excellent condition. The case has been professionally polished during service. The watch is complemented by a Cartier black alligator strap and its original Cartier white gold deployant clasp.
Specifications — Watches of Knightsbridge
Reference: 1575; Metal: Platinum; Movement: Manual Wind Cal. 21, Frederic Piguet Base; Case diameter: 27mm; Bracelet/strap: Cartier Leather Strap & White Gold Deployant Clasp
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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