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Cartier Paris Tortue 18K YG (Ref. 96069) "Extra Plate", 1970s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Paris Tortue 18K YG (Ref. 96069) "Extra Plate", 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
CTRPT96069
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CTRPT96069)
Catalogue title (original)
1970s Cartier Paris Tortue 18K YG (Ref. 96069) "Extra Plate" (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CTRPT96069), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

The Cartier name is synonymous with luxury and has been since the brand's inception in 1847. Offering bespoke and unique jewelry to the world’s elite allowed Cartier to grow steadily through the 19th century and eventually introduced new offerings to their clientele. Among the ranks of the Tank Normale, Santos-Dumont, and the Baignoire, the Tortue is one of the early original designs introduced by Louis Cartier. Debuting in 1912 with a name that directly translates to "tortoise" in English, the Tortue became an instant classic within Cartier's offerings and has been reinvented by the Maison time and time again throughout the brand's history. While the first version of the Trotue was a time-only model, perhaps the most famous version of the Tortue is the mono-pusher chronograph or the "monopoussoir" which was introduced in 1929 alongside a minute repeater version. This reference of the Cartier Tortue is best known amongst collectors as the "Extra Plate" or "Extra Thin" and is one of the thinnest Cartier watches ever produced and features a total thickness of 5mm. This impressive feat is achieved through the utilization of the renowned Frederic Piguet Cal. 21 ultra-thin mechanical movement. Though this Cartier Tortue "Extra Plate" is one of the thinnest watches Cartier ever made, it retains the standard height and width dimensions of the Tortue in this era, making for a perfectly proportioned timepiece. Stock # CTRPT96069 Brand Cartier Style Tortue "Extra Plate" Model 96069 Serial 02XX Size Men's / Unisex Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial White Roman "Paris" Millimeters 26.5 x 34.5 Bracelet Cartier 18K YG Milanese Bracelet W/ Hidden Cartier Deployant Clasp CASE & BRACELET The svelte, handsome, and perfectly proportioned "extra plate" 18K yellow gold case is in impressively well-preserved condition, showing minimal signs of previous polishing, excellent dimensions, and gentle signs of use. The case retains its original mineral glass sloped crystal which exhibits some gentle wear from use. The case retains its original blue sapphire cabochon crown. The back of the case retains all of the watch's original factory markings and hallmarks in crisp and clear condition. The watch comes supplied on its extremely uncommon and beautifully crafted 18K yellow gold Cartier milanese-style hidden clasp bracelet with deployant clasp. The bracelet will fit up to a 6 3/4-inch wrist. DIAL & HANDS The original and classic white "Paris" dial with black Roman numerals is in excellent overall condition with a charming warmth and vintage aesthetic. The dial exhibits some gentle elements of age expected of a Cartier dial of this era though no damage or cracking is present. The original blued hands are in excellent condition. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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